John Frieh Posted July 21, 2006 Share Posted July 21, 2006 Non bent lobe Bent lobe Non bent lobe Bent lobe Can you spot the bent one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted July 21, 2006 Share Posted July 21, 2006 Yeah, so? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted July 21, 2006 Share Posted July 21, 2006 How did you manage that? Â Was it placed properly, or did it get twisted? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted July 22, 2006 Share Posted July 22, 2006 was this from your fall when you were climbing with Blake? The one that held your fall? Â ? ? ? ?? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
underworld Posted July 22, 2006 Share Posted July 22, 2006 take it back to REI. tell them it was a gift and the wrong size... and that you haven't used it yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted July 22, 2006 Author Share Posted July 22, 2006 How did you manage that? Â was this from your fall when you were climbing with Blake? The one that held your fall? Â I don't know! I can't think of any recent falls on that piece... the fall on gunsight was caught by a marginal red alien after a #6 nut above that popped. Â It was hard to capture the bend completely with my camera but that lobe is warped! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted July 22, 2006 Share Posted July 22, 2006 Wow, impressive John. You must have loaned to to Ivan for direct aid? Or maybe like sleepwalking, except it's sleepclimbing? Do you wake up all worked and sore in the am and smell like sweat and old rope despite having gone to bed early? Â I'm curious, are you advocating buying Metolius? I see that a lot form smart folks who use to use BD cams. I understand Metiolius stuff is just super bomber. Just bought a Supercam today, it's waaaaaaaaaaayyyyyyyyyyy solid, but I still like BD camalots. Â Remind me to bring it along next time you're around so you can fondle it like I did your C3's the other day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted July 22, 2006 Share Posted July 22, 2006 I've had my suspicions about each succeding generation of Camalots and the C4's are no exception - the whole design of the business end of them has always creeped me out as adequate, but in no way burly. All the more reason for Metolius to get off the stick on the medium and large Super Cams and then quickly start on two even larger sizes. I hate having to resort to Camalots at the high end of the size range. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted July 22, 2006 Share Posted July 22, 2006 So are you saying that BD isn't adaquately testing their cams? I have the bigger C4s and they don't seem suspect to me, and I think I have a grasp on basic physics. What is your claim, do you see a faulty design? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted July 22, 2006 Share Posted July 22, 2006 John is that the piece is was AO-ing on during the Gunsight expedition? it seemed a tad tweaked then, but not so bad as seen now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted July 22, 2006 Share Posted July 22, 2006 No, I'm saying I don't like the design. I think the axles are too thin a stock and that I don't like the way the cams are attached to them and I never have. Their early U stem versions used to come apart and I've heard a number of antecdotal stories over the years of the last gen coming apart. I don't see any significant changes to the business end of the C4s to give me any more confidence in them. I have and use the larger two of them and I'm always eyeing the Wild Country versions which are way burlier but have a funky cam tip/hand interaction when placing them in tight quarters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted July 22, 2006 Share Posted July 22, 2006 What I want to know is what's he doing with the vice. Straightening it back out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted July 22, 2006 Share Posted July 22, 2006 How did you manage that? Â Was it placed properly, or did it get twisted? Â all'z i can say is j is one fat mutha! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielHarro Posted July 22, 2006 Share Posted July 22, 2006 John- Â Have you gained weight or something? Don't do it!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmuja Posted July 22, 2006 Share Posted July 22, 2006 Â Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted July 24, 2006 Author Share Posted July 24, 2006 So I figured out... or I should say I at least narrowed it down.  I used that piece at least once to hammer on the end of my nut tool to remove a stuck nut on Bear. My suspicion is that motion bent the lobe... but then again I wasn't wailing on the thing so I have a hard time saying definitively that was what caused it. I have my doubts as I would have really had to have wailed on it to bend it as much as I did and I have been doing this for years and never had a problem... who knows. Maybe all this ice climbing season preparation has beefed up my swing  I didn't think of it at first as I am doing my best to forget that trip all together... or at least the rap anchors and the bush...  And fat? Not last time I checked... some of you turds should call me to go climbing and you can see first hand just how fat I am... or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
counterfeitfake Posted July 24, 2006 Share Posted July 24, 2006 Well, when did you notice it was bent? Â Seems like something is missing here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted July 24, 2006 Author Share Posted July 24, 2006 Few days after getting back from CAN... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
counterfeitfake Posted July 24, 2006 Share Posted July 24, 2006 Like, I would think that could happen if you stepped on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phillygoat Posted July 24, 2006 Share Posted July 24, 2006 Few days after getting back from CAN... Â EUREKA! It was the baggage handlers!! (unless, of course, you drove...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted July 24, 2006 Author Share Posted July 24, 2006 (edited) I bent it with my mind... Edited July 24, 2006 by John Frieh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted July 24, 2006 Share Posted July 24, 2006 Jeesh you guys. I have messed up a boatload of cams over the years; including almost every generation of Friend and several generations of Metolius. Gear breaks if you’re using it hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted July 24, 2006 Share Posted July 24, 2006 but...but this is the internet! how else are we to admire how worn the numbathrees on his rack are? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted July 26, 2006 Share Posted July 26, 2006 If that was one of the pieces from gunsight, it was a little tweaked then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted July 26, 2006 Share Posted July 26, 2006 ya dood...get some new gear....obviously all your cams are worn out. WTF, nobody is gonna want to climb with if you have a rack that is all bent to hell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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