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Mt. Adams Mazama Glacier


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Climbed it for the first time earlier this year, I absolutely will do it again. Some of the most beautiful scenery you'll see. Bring lots of film!

Stay to the right as you leave camp and this will help you avoid some of the crevasse issues. We went straight up the middle and ended up traversing to the right (north) and that was the very end of June, I'm sure that line is pretty broken up now.

Don't forget to walk over and check out the Klickitat Glacier as you head up (about 9,500) and "The Castle": ABSOLUTELY INCREDIBLE. note: watch out for cornices when you do that.


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  • 2 weeks later...

Was there 2 weeks ago. big crowd,parking sucked. Some lovley fellow block about 20 cars into one of the upper lots had to back out for about half a mile or so. Hope he wasn't mad when he had to change that flat tire. (I didn't do it really). We packed alot of agua, unsure of water source. You could boil or filter reasonably well. The route is extemely rocky and snow is scarce in places above the glacier. Saw some evidence of crevace openings in the lower glacier. Rope up and wear a helmet some large rock falls in evidence also but way up high and right on the glacier. Not much to worry about. Start early in the am to climb on ice as the route tends to turn to slop later in the day. bring sun screen! Climb on and have a ball!

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  • 1 month later...

September 22-23

After a late start Friday night, my two partners and I reached the sunrise camp below the Mazama Glacier about 3:45 on Saturday afternoon. We set off shortly there after to set wands through the first crevasse field so we could easily find our way when we sent off before sunrise. After setting wands we sat at camp and cheered on the constant rock and icefall. At one point, a large chunk from the first icefall (above the lower mazama glacier) broke and slid about 100 yards only to be swallowed up by a giant crevasse just below. We set off around 5:30 to summit. After navigating some ill looking seracs in the icefalls above the lower mazama, it was essentially a clear shot across the glacier to the head wall to the false summit, with a few leaps of faith thrown in the mix for good measure. We reached the false summit around 10 o’clock and took a nice long break in some rocks here. Being that the South Trail was closed, we had only seen one other group of climbers who had made it to the false summit the night before. I think it was the false summit when I realized how big and beautiful of mountain Mt. Adams really is. From the summit, it was a wonderful slog back down the mazama glacier to camp. All and all it took us about 7 hours round trip from the sunrise camp. Safe travels.


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  • 4 weeks later...

I think it's pretty tame, you can probably climb it any time of year. I've been to the base of the route twice. Once to climb it, but we got "weathered off" as soon as we stepped on the glacier, and once last month for a search. Both times I've been there, there was only 1 other party in the area. So, pretty solitude-y, and it's a beautiful area. Great views of the Klickitat from Sunrise Camp. Nice approach too. You need to pay a fee to park, since its on the Indian Reservation (that is, assuming you do the approach from the Bird Lake area, and not the south spur). I forget how much it is.

I wouldn't worry too much about glacier conditions, unless you're a beginner. You can probably avoid most crevasses, and overall its not a very broken glacier. I think it would 'go' anytime.

Oh yeah, I see medic566 said parking sucked. It won't now (after Labour Day). When we were there for the search last month, the only cars in the lot were from the searchers, and the 1 other party we saw. There wasn't anyone else around. Oh yeah... the road is rough. But not too bad.

[This message has been edited by philfort (edited 10-18-2001).]

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