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Adams Glacier


haireball

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Spent the three days from 7/28 to 7/30 doing the Adams Glacier with an inexperienced partner who wanted to try "something more than the walk-up". Found the route to be in superb condition, with an inch or two of crusty re-frozen snow over firm neve - made for very forgiving cramponing and tooling. I'm a bit mystified by earlier posts about this route, because I found the crevasses no problem. But we didn't start climbing until 5am, so I could see where I was going...

The "North Cleaver" is a long, tedious, but straightforward descent, with cairns and wands in place for the "navigationally challenged" (like me, when I'm that tired..."

With our daylight start, we did end up bivvying about halfway down the cleaver - no big deal - lotsa nice places to sit and shiver and wait for the sun to come up...

the hardest part of this trip was jumping through the regulatory hoops - parking permit, "volcano permit" $etc, $etc, yada-yada.

Anyway, bottom line is, it's definitely not too late for this route - we couldn't have custom-ordered better conditions!

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