fozzy Posted June 7, 2001 Share Posted June 7, 2001 A friend and I are thinking about doing the Mazama Glacier route this weekend. Has anyone been up there recently? I'm guessing the mtn got a decent bit of new snow last weekend. Any info on route conditions would be appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan_Harris Posted June 8, 2001 Share Posted June 8, 2001 Can't help you, but hopefully you can help me. I am coming up from CA to do Mazama Glacier on June 24 - 25. Any info you can give me would be appreciated. ------------------ Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philfort Posted June 8, 2001 Share Posted June 8, 2001 Do the approach hike from the Indian reservation instead of Cold Springs. It's very scenic and uncrowded - and should make up for the hassle of going through the reservation (there's a fee, and they look at you like they don't want you there). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fozzy Posted June 11, 2001 Author Share Posted June 11, 2001 We went to climb the Mazama Glacier route this weekend. The ranger station in Trout Lake told us that you can't climb that route until July 1. Almost all of it is on the Indian side of the mtn, and non-Indians are not allowed there until after July 1. We ended up doing the standard route. I just thought you would want to know. Strange that none of the guidebooks or websites I came across mention that fact. quote: Originally posted by Dan Harris: Can't help you, but hopefully you can help me. I am coming up from CA to do Mazama Glacier on June 24 - 25. Any info you can give me would be appreciated. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan_Harris Posted June 12, 2001 Share Posted June 12, 2001 Can anyone tell me what is up with the July 1 thing fozzy mentioned? Being from CA I sent in my registration at the end of April and recieved my volcano pass back with Bird Creek Meadows Trail Head and Mazama Glacier route written on the pass and no mention that I couldn't do this before July 1. [This message has been edited by Dan Harris (edited 06-11-2001).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yossarian Posted June 12, 2001 Share Posted June 12, 2001 Why not climb the mountain anyway? If you are willing to risk the objective dangers of avalanche and rockfall, wooden arrows or a good scalping shouldn't scare you off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EddieE Posted June 12, 2001 Share Posted June 12, 2001 How about because trespassing on private lands sucks and blows it for everyone else. Wooden arrows and scalping? There's a ton of spray on this site (which I don't mind sifting through to get good beta), and I know you're joking, but keep the ignunt stuff to yourself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Posted June 12, 2001 Share Posted June 12, 2001 Not just ignorant, but racist. The Klickitat tribe is about as related to plains tribes as Britain is to Russia. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SquidWard Posted June 12, 2001 Share Posted June 12, 2001 FOZZY, THANKS FOR THE BETA. I WAS WAITING FOR YOUR REPORT ON THE ROUTE BUT NOW I GUESS I`LL HAVE TO SETTLE FOR THE ADAMS ROUTE UNLESS THERE IS SOME UNKNOWN RESTRICTIONS FOR THAT AS WELL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan_Harris Posted June 13, 2001 Share Posted June 13, 2001 Called the Mount Adams Ranger District office today. Tis tru, the Yakima Reservation is only open to climbers from July 1 to October 1. Looks like I need to find another route. Any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry_McClain Posted June 14, 2001 Share Posted June 14, 2001 Dan, The Adams Glacier looked like it was in really good shape today. Lots of new snow stopped us, but should be consolidated in a few days. Road to Killien Creek trailhead is open. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan_Harris Posted June 15, 2001 Share Posted June 15, 2001 How does Adams compare to Mazama? I have gone up Avalanche Gulch on Mount Shasta, Hayden Glacier on Middle Sister, OR and some steep snow fields in the Central Sierras. Nothing very crevassed. Mazama looked like the next step up from these routes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairweather Posted June 15, 2001 Share Posted June 15, 2001 quote: Originally posted by Dan Harris: How does Adams compare to Mazama? I have gone up Avalanche Gulch on Mount Shasta, Hayden Glacier on Middle Sister, OR and some steep snow fields in the Central Sierras. Nothing very crevassed. Mazama looked like the next step up from these routes. Dan, The Adams Glacier route is significantly more difficult than the Mazama. You can easily access the Mazama route by parking at Cold Springs (South Spur-normal route) hiking up about half mile to the RTM trail, turn right(east) then follow this trail into the reservation for about one mile before you leave the trail and angle up and left toward Mazama Glacier Saddle. About 3 hours total. True, you'll be trespassing, but the Yakimas promised to keep this area open to all rec. activities when Nixon expanded the Reservation boundary here in 1973. They have since gone back on this agreement. They don't patrol the backcountry beyond the roads so you'll have no problems. Also, there is a lot of new snow above 5500' that may be temporarily blocking access to Cold Springs trail head. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snowleopard_x Posted June 21, 2001 Share Posted June 21, 2001 If the Adams Glacier is a bit much, take a gander at a few other routes from the north and west sides. The Lava Ridge, North Ridge, White Salmon Glacier, and West Ridge routes are all beginner-intermediate, somewhat long, often climbed in spring to early summer, with light crowds. I have not climbed them all, but have been on that side of the mountain and it's quite nice. Check out Fred Beckey's CAG 1, and Jeff Smoot's Climbing the Cascade Volcanoes books for more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted July 9, 2001 Share Posted July 9, 2001 Howdy Folks! Did any of you get up Mazama Glacier this season? I am considering it as a posible route for me and my girl. We want a straightforward glacier with easy route finding and little objective danger. We are both pretty new to glacier travel, but we don't really want to go up the mule route... Any one recomend this route, or have info on its condition? Our dates are the first week of August, is that gettin' too late? Are there any other recomended August Routes? Did Sitcum last year. Thanks All, Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted July 9, 2001 Share Posted July 9, 2001 Cool, thanks Fred, that sounds great. Only my girl has her eyes on one of the "big well known ones". Don't ask me why, I fear the spray that will come from her reasoning. We want to do Ranier together in the next couple of years, and we are looking for some good training routes, cause there ain't no way were paying a guide. Any other suggestions would be great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrogers Posted July 9, 2001 Share Posted July 9, 2001 Well, um, this is a little off the S Cascades thread, but if that's the case try: the Coleman-Deming or Easton Routes on Baker (Coleman-Deming is more interesting- not just a long slog), the Sulphide on Shuksan, or S. Side on Mt. Hood. Also, consider Sloan Peak Corkscrew Route, Silver Star Glacier on Silver Star, etc. You won't see as many people on Daniel or other less known climbs. I'd rather do those than tromp up the Coleman with 200 other people. But that's just me... Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrogers Posted July 10, 2001 Share Posted July 10, 2001 Just did Mt. Daniels via the Lynch Glacier this weekend. Be a perfect "me and my girl" route- the routefinding is easy (just pick one) and while there was some rockfall, that can be minimized by going early. The creavasses can be avioded easily. The approach is short and the camping at Peggy's pond is beautiful, which are other pluses. Note sure of the lynch glacier route will be in season by August without having to do some serious traversing. Check CAG vol. 1 for Daniels glacier route and Beckey Sonqualme to Stevens for the Lynch Glacier and SE ridge routes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.