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Jens

Can I fix the perverse traverse?

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Would anyone have any objections to me fixing the perverse traverse that leads to the cheeks at index? We have been climbing up there a bunch and opening some new routes. Even though the traverse isn't bad or hard, a lot of people are turned off by it and go elsewhere. If it were fixed, the cheeks would deservedly see more traffic -(after all it does have the whitest rock at index). Would anyone object to a fixed line?

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If it were fixed, the cheeks would deservedly see more traffic -(after all it does have the whitest rock at index). Would anyone object to a fixed line?

 

Thanks for asking first. That's mighty bif of you. But since you asked, I think that a bunch of bolts and a fixed line, for the purpose of increasing traffic, are a bad idea. If the climbing up there is that great, people will make the effort. Keep it wild. thumbs_up.gif

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If it were fixed, the cheeks would deservedly see more traffic -(after all it does have the whitest rock at index). Would anyone object to a fixed line?

 

Thanks for asking first. That's mighty bif of you. But since you asked, I think that a bunch of bolts and a fixed line, for the purpose of increasing traffic, are a bad idea. If the climbing up there is that great, people will make the effort. Keep it wild. thumbs_up.gif

 

Keep it scary or make it more open to keeping clean? Definitely do the latter. Use bolts and cleaning with prudence will make it accesable is very warranted, lest it become another annoying moss/lichen choked deathfest. You have my vote for keeping it safe and free for the peeps!

evils3d.gif

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Fix away - small trail and access improvements go a long way to helping spread impact and heighten the overall experience of the area. Try and make it long lasting so it remains useful for years to come.

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Interesting thought. I would say fix the thing. That area could be really nice, and honestly, that traverse is nasty. Just fix it in a low impact, nonvisiable way. Explain your ideas on fixing it? How would you do it. I remember the traverse clearly, and it would be a little tough. I also remember there were a fair amount of bolts on the thing that are used for anchors for the climbs below.

 

Wouldn't mind actually go back up there here soon. What have you been cleaning/doing up there? Topos?

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Short history of the Perverse Traverse (easy 5th class):

 

~1980 No bolts anywhere

~Mid 1980s Bolts near the start for a TR anchor

~Late 1980/90 New anchors at both ends and two bolts added midway. (Several large blocks were thrown off)

 

In some sense it is already fixed. Back in the 1980’s there was quite a bit of traffic across the PT yet after the addition of end point anchors and midway bolts traffic actually dropped. Does “fixed” mean just securing a rope from the start to finish? A fixed line won’t make the climbing easier but it will enable packs to be moved across it a bit more easily.

 

Does “fixed” mean something more?

 

 

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i'd say, fix it. whatever it takes to keep people climbing and cleaning the more obscure routes at Index.

anybody know the condition of Apes and Ballerinas over there?

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Fixed enough already. If a partner is timid, toss a rope to them and belay them thru.

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at least the first pitch of apes is clean haven't ventured out onto the second yet so don't really know. Most of the routes on the cheeks stay clean because it is so steep.

 

By fix I believe jens means fix a rope acrossed it.

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I don't think a fixed line is going to hurt anything, but I am also thinking that maybe a semi permanent fixed line creates some obligations as far as maintenance and also some real questions as to trustworthyness. Would you use a fixed line that you didn't fix, didn't know who fixed how well, and didn't know if it had gotten schlocked by a rock? By the time you meander over and check these sorts of things out...well...you don't really need it any more do you?

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fix away, yah cheeks!!!!!!!!! smile.gif

 

587188-cheeks009%28Small%29.jpg

 

edited by off white to insert image from attachment

587188-cheeks009(Small).jpg.e35729fd470b5ec9a6963f8d3d7c9003.jpg

Edited by Off_White

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Short history of the Perverse Traverse (easy 5th class):

 

~1980 No bolts anywhere

~Mid 1980s Bolts near the start for a TR anchor

~Late 1980/90 New anchors at both ends and two bolts added midway. (Several large blocks were thrown off)

 

In some sense it is already fixed. Back in the 1980’s there was quite a bit of traffic across the PT yet after the addition of end point anchors and midway bolts traffic actually dropped. Does “fixed” mean just securing a rope from the start to finish? A fixed line won’t make the climbing easier but it will enable packs to be moved across it a bit more easily.

 

 

Excellent points, Peter!

 

 

 

Does “fixed” mean something more?

 

 

 

Good question! Are we talking fixed rope...

 

phtet4.JPG

 

 

Or something that would encourage even more traffic, maybe one of these....

 

via_ferrata_crolles.jpg

 

 

But to really get people up onto the Cheeks, you should probably do it right....

 

aspen-cable-car.jpg

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damn - Via Ferrata Pic didn't work - and i was all excited to see something new and original!

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damn - Via Ferrata Pic didn't work - and i was all excited to see something new and original!

 

Too bad. It's a good one! But not quite as inspiring as your personal favorite:

 

414ferrata211.gif

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damn - Via Ferrata Pic didn't work - and i was all excited to see something new and original!

 

Too bad. It's a good one! But not quite as inspiring as your personal favorite:

 

 

Laugh! That IS my favorite one! For the sake of all things cc.com I think I need to take a trip there so I can get MY photo on the Via Ferrata - MAybe with some aviator glasses! KNow where that one is?

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Laugh! That IS my favorite one! For the sake of all things cc.com I think I need to take a trip there so I can get MY photo on the Via Ferrata - MAybe with some aviator glasses! KNow where that one is?

 

Save your travel money and be patient. A reasonably accurate replica is coming to the Cheeks.

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