Fairweather Posted July 9, 2006 Share Posted July 9, 2006 We've had this one on our 'to do' list for some time now. I don't think it sees much traffic. Left Fryingpan Creek Trailhead with my brother, Steve, at 5:30am and hiked through Summerland (trail is snow-free to last few switchbacks, then about 60% snow) to Meany Crest arriving there around 8:30. Roped up and easily crossed the Fryingpan Glacier. No crampons were necessary and slightly-soft stepkicking made for good progress. Arrived at the base of the spire around 10:00am, ate some lunch, and contemplated the route up - which looked much more difficult than Beckey's description. With brother Steve ahead we scrambled up the downsloping ledges of the SE face in one long lead. It seems that the entire slab of the lower SE face is ready to calve off of the main structure. A 2 foot wide fissure seperates the ledge system from the main face and dropping debris into the black space between indicates it is very, very deep. Again, with Steve leading (Thanks, Steve!) in his mountain boots we surmounted a crux lieback - very exposed, slightly overhung, definetely 5.7 - and traversed back left along a low fifth-class finger traverse (again- very exposed) to the summit ridge. Easy scramble up from here. Nice views. Rappel is doable with the two 37 meter ice-floss ropes we climbed with. Back down the Fryingpan, saw hordes of people making camp at Meany Crest for Little T climbs on Sunday. Back to the car around 5:00pm after a leisurley, fun descent. Gear: Crampons (not used) Ice axe Two 37 meter ropes 3 small - medium cams 3 small - med stoppers Helmet Rock shoes (helpful for me, but not required) note: a single 60 meter rope is not adequate for the rappel. Our twin 37's bearly reached the base. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian_m Posted July 10, 2006 Share Posted July 10, 2006 Sounds like a fun, quick trip. Pictures tell the story about how nice the weather was. Thanks for the TR. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted July 11, 2006 Share Posted July 11, 2006 Nice to get a report and pics on something that doesn't get much traffic. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Already_on_Top Posted July 27, 2006 Share Posted July 27, 2006 note: a single 60 meter rope is not adequate for the rappel. Our twin 37's bearly reached the base. A 60m will work. The rope won't touch the ground but if your a fatboy like me rope strech will take you home. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted July 27, 2006 Share Posted July 27, 2006 Good work guys! How bad did Steve have to beg to get you to go rock climbing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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