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Mt Stuart area climbing permit?


paramagic

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Call the ranger station to verify, but my impression is that it is generally getting easier to get permits on a walk-in basis than it used to be. To me it has always made more sense to approach from the north for north side routes, though many don't like the Sherpa Col descent or other north side options.

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There are permit only sites at the meadows at Ingalls basin and there are outskirts to camp at without permits. But if you go down to the meadows at the base of Stuart you are outside of the permit area. No fires at any site.

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unless things have changed this year, no permit necessary for bivoucing in the moraines below Stuart Glacier (north side) if Sherpa Glacier descent turns you off, consider descending NW buttress - class 3 & 4 rock scrambling, but at least doesn't require ice-boots, ice-tools, crampons... I've never had any difficulty obtaining a walk-in permit to camp at Stuart Lake - mid week these permits often go unrequested... Leavenworth Ranger Station opens 0700. good luck!

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