ckiely Posted July 5, 2006 Share Posted July 5, 2006 (edited) Climb: Faulty Tower-Basil's Buttress Date of Climb: 7/1/2006 Trip Report: Ramsay Dyer and I climbed a variation of a route done in the 90's. Two 'pitches' of 3rd-4th class, followed by 2 pitches of roped climbing, the first being low 5th (30m)and the second somewhere in the 5.6, 5.7 range (20m). I call it a 'variation' because the crux moves felt harder than 5.6, so I'm not sure we were on route all the way. The route was difficult to protect, but there are good boulders at the right spots to use as anchors. After the crux pitch there is a nice horizontal crack in a truck sized boulder for an anchor. Rap off boulder on the north side of final ledge before the scramble to the top. One 60m rope will just reach the ledges below. Downclimb to sketchy gully. We crossed the gully above a large boulder and skipped over to the next gully which was easy downclimbing. Gear Notes: Some slings, yellow metolious, small nuts. Bring small gear for the second anchor, pink tricam, yellow metolious and small nuts. Approach Notes: Downton Creek FSR, north fork, hike to base of Linus Peak. Nice lake there to camp at. Edited July 5, 2006 by ckiely Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted July 5, 2006 Share Posted July 5, 2006 PINK TRICAM! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordop Posted July 5, 2006 Share Posted July 5, 2006 Hey very cool I've been meaning to try that one too. Any idea where Crack of Noon goes? I think Greer says its on the east(?) face, but I could only see dihedral feature on the N face . . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckiely Posted July 5, 2006 Author Share Posted July 5, 2006 Is Crack of Noon that 5.9 that's up there? I saw something on the east face that looks 5.9ish, basically you'd follow our route to just before we roped up, and then you can get on the face that way by traversing to the right. All the other faces looked very very hard! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordop Posted July 5, 2006 Share Posted July 5, 2006 Yeah, lots of black lichen too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckiely Posted July 5, 2006 Author Share Posted July 5, 2006 Ya, I know. I climbed in my boots and had an easier time than Ramsay, who went in his climbing shoes. Boots have more bite, I guess and his shoes just slipped all over. Btw, it was your trip report on Bivywack that gave us the beta for the climb, so thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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