Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber


      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  

[TR] McMillan Spire- West Ridge 7/2/2006

Recommended Posts

Climb: McMillan Spire-West Ridge


Date of Climb: 7/2/2006


Trip Report:

Yesterday I climbed this with relentless alpine peak bagger Rod Xuereb.

There's plenty of beta on this area and the climb itself is straightforward so this is mostly just photo coverage. The conditions are near perfect right now with consolidated snow above 5000 ft making for easier travel. The approach to Terror basin took us a hard 8 1/2 hours but another party did it in 7.


Terror basin camp:




Approaching McMillan Spire:




Usual shots of climbers approaching Inspiration Peak via Terror glacier:






Summit views:

Inspiration Peak:




Southern Pickets:






Northern Pickets:








View south:




Mt Triumph:




McMillan descent:




We were back in camp about 11 am and decided to leave our idyllic, scenic campsite to hike out and get it over with (being the jaded alpine peak baggers that we are). The hike out then took 6 hours. This is the easiest Pickets approach but still difficult. I last climbed this peak in 1986 and am amazed that I ever made it back, but probably for the last time. I think I would at least go for a different peak in the Pickets if I'm going to hike that far.


Gear Notes:

ice axe, crampons, took 30m rope-didn't use it

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Great photos!


That's a lovely campsite, isn't it?


Such great weather, the views must have been wonderful.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

It was also fun seeing a familiar face at the Marblemount RS, Gary Yngve. I offered to sell him mosquito repellent but received only an evil stare. Hope your climb went well, Gary.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

We were up there 6/20 -24, summiting on W McMillan on the 22nd. That campsite was a little less green but still an idyllic spot. Our summit day included several hours of lounging around on rocks at the base of Terror Glacier waiting for the white-out to lift. For pics of the weather that day try picasaweb.google.com/john.wahlund.


We were carrying gear for a week so it took us all of a day to get to the 'heather bench' camp. We tried without success to find an acceptable way across the barrier on 6/23 and bailed on the 24th, choosing to spend the last day of our trip doing some easy rockclimbing at sunny Washington Pass.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this