Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
JeffG

Mt Jefferson - Jeff Park Glacier Route Conditions

Recommended Posts

Anybody have recent info on the Jefferson Park Glacier route or the condition of the summit pinnacle?

 

Am heading there this weekend -- any info is appreciated.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Went in to look at the W. Ridge last weekend. Super soft snow kept us from getting very high. The summit pinnacle and Knife Edge Ridge were both partially covered in rime, but were fast on the way to becoming bare. I expect they'll melt off this week.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I talked to several people coming out of the Whitewater trailhead on Saturday. The highest anyone got on the Jeff Park Glacier was up to the bergschrund. Snow was extrememly soft (high temps last weekend). Of three parties, none went higher than that.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

We talked with one exiting team (July 1) and watched 3 other teams (July 2 -3) on the JPG route this past weekend. All abandonded their climbs at the impassable schrund, so we decided to play cards, work on our tans and swim in cold waters of Jeff Park instead.

 

Here's a shot of the upper JPG which shows boot paths and the nice horseshoe schrund:

getImage.pl?imgID=58942388-d68f&trans=

 

Didn't I see you there walking around with duct tape sunglasses?

586074-PICT0043lowres.jpg.48fca65de3af463f674b54bf460001e8.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks like you might be able to pass the schrund on the right hand side. Can't you pass the schrund via some rock on the left hand side? Or was it the right?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What the photo of the upper glacier doesn't really show is that the pitch changes to the right of the schrund and the snow angle really steepens. On this weekend the snow was too soft for pickets to be of any use so this was not an option. Maybe under firmer snow conditions ...

 

Rock on left side of schrund (and north ridge in general) is poor and crumbly.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×