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Mt Jefferson - Jeff Park Glacier Route Conditions


JeffG

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Went in to look at the W. Ridge last weekend. Super soft snow kept us from getting very high. The summit pinnacle and Knife Edge Ridge were both partially covered in rime, but were fast on the way to becoming bare. I expect they'll melt off this week.

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We talked with one exiting team (July 1) and watched 3 other teams (July 2 -3) on the JPG route this past weekend. All abandonded their climbs at the impassable schrund, so we decided to play cards, work on our tans and swim in cold waters of Jeff Park instead.

 

Here's a shot of the upper JPG which shows boot paths and the nice horseshoe schrund:

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Didn't I see you there walking around with duct tape sunglasses?

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What the photo of the upper glacier doesn't really show is that the pitch changes to the right of the schrund and the snow angle really steepens. On this weekend the snow was too soft for pickets to be of any use so this was not an option. Maybe under firmer snow conditions ...

 

Rock on left side of schrund (and north ridge in general) is poor and crumbly.

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