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Kautz Glacier


Keith

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The NPS web site says that "On July 6th the ice cliff calved car sized chunks onto the traverse below the ice cliff...on three separate occasions. All parties climbing on the 6th turned back due to icefall hazard."

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A friend and myself camped under the icefall last year on the route. I awoke to really big chunks of ice coming off but it all sluffed away. There were some nice bivy sites up there when we were there but I have heard they are gone due to icefall now.

 

If you feel comfortable frontpointing you can skirt the icecliff to the left of camp hazard and not have to downclimb around a rock outcrop. A second tool would come in handy there but we did it without one.

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the climb was in great shape two weeks ago. you can bypass the climb back up to Hazard on the way back saving some time and avoiding some objective danger by making a 4th class 20 foot climb up the rock below Camp hazard. There is a fp for protection... you could also rappel from a fixed station here (red and blue slings) and avoid going directly under the ice cliff. We camped low at around 9300 ft. which worked out great since there is running water there (below the turtle). If you go high you will need to carry more fuel and melt snow which will negate any time you saved by climbing up there. It is quick going with summit packs up to hazard. Take some horsecock and cheese and you are good to go.

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quote:

Originally posted by slothrop:

quote:

Originally posted by Dru:

what is the scientifically measured volume of "car sized"? Geo Metro or 56 TBird?

'56 T-Birds aren't that big... how about a '56 Lincoln?

How about a Chevy Avalanche [laf]
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