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olyclimber

[TR] Index G-M Route- G-M and other stuff (Thin Fi

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I just asked my gut, and as it was just pouring down rain, my gut thinks it is indeed wet right now there.

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Davis-Holland is probably dry: it's steep & south facing.

 

When I first climbed it, we hiked in through intermittent rain and the wall was soaked....then the clouds cleared, and the route was dry enough to climb just an hour or two later!

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Has anyone been up to Davis-Holland in the past couple of days? Is the first pitch dry? Were there mosquitos?

 

Maybe. No. Yes.

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thanks mayor! i have to find myself a place up there. unfortunately I think I may have to just get a piece of property without a cabin, as it is all I can afford right now. cry.gif

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Fuck you guys!

 

madgo_ron.gif

 

 

No shit seeing these pictures is driving me crazy. What the fuck are you trying to do to me. Count down is T=27days including a freakin' 30 hours of flying, then I got to get on some Index goodness. I don't know what I will do in the mean time, jeezus.

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OK, I led Thin Fingers the other day so the moves are fresh in my head.

 

Regarding the 1st pitch, there are three ledges: the top belay ledge, the ledge below the crux stem / thin crack, and a smaller ledge lower to the right.

 

ChucK is wondering how to move past the lowest ledge.

 

Mantle onto the ledge and rest as needed. Stem with your left foot smearing on something and your right foot on the ledge. Finger lock in a crack with your right hand (you can plug a bomber nut in there too. Now look up and left. There's a nice hold for your left hand. Pull on this hold and you can move to easier ground.

 

Now what I want to know is how the hell to get off the deck on the 2nd pitch without doing the bypass or aiding. When I led the 2nd pitch the other day, I did a single move of aid (#1 Wallnut).

 

I can cling to the wall in spread-out position about two feet above the ledge, but it's too tenuous to move from there. Then there's high-stepping onto the right hold about 2.5 feet above the ledge while side-pulling with the right hand, but there's not great stuff to get with your left hand above. Either way, the goal is to get the right foot on a better hold about 4 feet above the ground. Grrr.

 

Also, does anyone know the circumstances regarding Boving's death on the route?

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Thanks Gary! I'll print this out and try it next time I head out to Index in about 3 months.

 

 

Regarding the crux of the second pitch, here's some beta from an old file I wrote a long time ago when I was even more obsessed with climbing:

Locate two small edges about 2 feet and 4 feet off
ledge.  The key hold is a small diagonal edge around the corner to the
right about 3 feet off the ledge.  You can use this edge to undercling
and hold your feet on the small edges.  Start with left foot on bottom
edge, use undercling out right and tiny thin crack for left hand.  Pull
up and set right toe on upper edge.  Get balanced and stand up straight
on edge, at which time you should be able to snag nice hold in upper 
corner.   

 

and also, have good edging shoes and make sure it's not too hot out. grin.gif

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thin fingers, 1st pitch .765493 way up the climb to .7934232

 

locate two small ledges then right click properties. select the place gear tab. move your right foot two pixels. download the next sequence by pressing control-alt-shift and left clicking the tiny crack 17 pixels to the right of your left pinky. scream for mommy. repeat. exit procedure if value=<.7934232.

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You guys like that stuff!? I could post some more. I probably got about 3 fuckin kb of it!

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It would be neat to see some of that stuff!

 

Yeah, I was climbing in comfy-fit Mythos, surely not the greatest for edging.

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climbed tatoosh with hansel on monday. fun stuff. climbing did not relign my spine as i hoped it would, but it was a nice afternoon. sky showed up with the other crazy dude who skied lib ridge with him recently. it was rad. alpinfox was there too. and his gf. a good time was had by all.

4342IndexEndofSummer2006-082.jpg

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It was cool watching that guy who had just led Iron Horse free crank right through the roof. cool.gif

 

Index is always fun. bigdrink.gif

 

Gary and Chuck: that level of beta is sick and wrong.

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There were a bunch of fresh stuff at the bottom of thin fingers, and still a few block up higher, but they don't look like they are going anywhere.

 

that 5.9 chimney on the second pitch is "fun".

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Also, does anyone know the circumstances regarding Boving's death on the route?

 

He fell while leading, probably in October of 1977. I believe that the late Reese Martin belayed him, and the next responder was Charlie Hampson. He was known for running it out, and was using just a couple of stoppers. The upper one failed, and he hit the large ledge.

 

He was being belayed through a Stitch plate, and it was thought by some, most notably Ed Leeper, that belay devices cause higher impact forces, leading to more placement failures. Leeper did an in-depth analysis of this accident, and his suppositions on rope-dynamics/fall forces can be found in Summit (cira 1978).

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climbed tatoosh with hansel on monday. fun stuff. climbing did not relign my spine as i hoped it would, but it was a nice afternoon. sky showed up with the other crazy dude who skied lib ridge with him recently. it was rad. alpinfox was there too. and his gf. a good time was had by all.

4342IndexEndofSummer2006-082.jpg

 

is what you rotoscoped that with, freeware, and if so where can i get it?

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