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[TR] Index G-M Route- G-M and other stuff (Thin Fi


olyclimber

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So what's the beta on getting past this spot (arrow)?

 

I honestly don't remember. I don't have trouble there.

 

I have trouble getting off the ledge above that because I always wanna fill up the fingerpods with gear to prevent hitting the ledge if I fell. This is especially a problem when your partner's rack doesn't have any nuts smaller than 1/2".

 

madgo_ron.gif

 

This is a rare instance where having smaller "nutz" gives you more confidence than bigguns. laugh.gif

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Regarding the move that Chuck has trouble with, I think I'm off to the right, side-pulling in the crack with my left hand.

 

Regarding the top moves, that often gives me trouble due to mental issues. I think I protect anything larger than a ledge fall with a yellow or green alien down low. Then place a nut (maybe an offset) about 7 feet above the ledge. Higher up I can establish a stem with a fingerlock on the right and a hold on the left, where another nut can be finagled.

 

I'd like to get out to Index again Mon or Tues night and do TF. I'll post any more beta I gather, as I'm recalling my memory from nearly a year ago.

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my poor excuse for a tape glove fell off right after that, so technically I didn't use them for most of the "5.11 climbing". but that is neither here nor there, because some might argue that I didn't really "climb", but it is all semantics because I made it up to the top. You could said that I was aided to the top, or even that I was "spirited" to the top if it makes you happy. Bottom line is I got to touch some really nice rock. I hope this "TR" is making you think about Index today.

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