kukuzka1 Posted January 26, 2010 Share Posted January 26, 2010 theirs huge potential Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenwesh Posted January 26, 2010 Share Posted January 26, 2010 looking across at garfield from chair last month the amount of rock is insane!!! but from the sounds of infinite bliss it doesn't lend itself to natural protection. I ain't no free soloist, but I'll climb a route with some runouts on it... is it legal to bolt with a hand-drill in there? would a ground up bolted on lead route be frowned on? I personally would climb it if the grade was within my ability, and the runouts were not life threatening, hell, I'd put it up if I had any experience bolting on lead, or even bolting in general! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted January 26, 2010 Share Posted January 26, 2010 iiiiiiinnnnnnnnnfffffffiiiiiiiiinnnnnnnnniiiiiiittttttteeeeeeee bbbbbbbbbiiiiiiiitttttttccccccccchhhhhhhhhhhhhiiiiiiiinnnnnnnggggggg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted January 26, 2010 Share Posted January 26, 2010 bitching is good for the JAW.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted January 26, 2010 Share Posted January 26, 2010 Very fun route. Needs rap anchors to get off pitch 17. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Good2Go Posted January 26, 2010 Share Posted January 26, 2010 I thought I heard that all the bolts were removed this past fall? Nope, it's still waiting for you and your chisel. I recommend that you start from the top down. Should only take about a year of weekends. And, please let us all know when you've finished so that we can go climb the route in its original pristine condition and re-capture that lost sense of adventure. TIA! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted January 26, 2010 Share Posted January 26, 2010 Alpinfox, tell Preiss thanks for the reminder courage and vision aren't measured in volts or recharged from a wall outlet. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el jefe Posted January 26, 2010 Share Posted January 26, 2010 Alpinfox, tell Preiss thanks for the reminder courage and vision aren't measured in volts or recharged from a wall outlet. having received the blessing of the almighty JosephH, Preiss can now feel he has achieved the "infinite bliss" of true fulfillment. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bug Posted January 26, 2010 Share Posted January 26, 2010 I thought I heard that all the bolts were removed this past fall? If so, I think everyone who criticized the bolts should be required to go climb it. Cause I'd put my money on it never being climbed again if they've been removed. Is it better to have an unbolted line that never gets climbed, or a bolted route that sees regular traffic and enjoyment? This is rhetorical - we already know everyone's position.... I can no longer get up the gendarme on the nr of Stuart. Would someone please bolt it for me? I'm sure I could do it if all I had to do was clip bolts. And this would make it more accessible to the masses of fat old farts like me..... Please don't respond with rhetorical answers. We already know everyone's positions........ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pdk Posted January 26, 2010 Share Posted January 26, 2010 I can no longer get up the gendarme on the nr of Stuart. Would someone please bolt it for me? I'm sure I could do it if all I had to do was clip bolts. And this would make it more accessible to the masses of fat old farts like me..... You are right. The NR of Stuart is JUST like infinite bliss. I mean, just check out the splitter cracks on IB: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted January 26, 2010 Share Posted January 26, 2010 You are right. The NR of Stuart is JUST like infinite bliss. I mean, just check out the splitter cracks on IB: hahaha.....that is funny. More spliters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bug Posted January 26, 2010 Share Posted January 26, 2010 An inability to find "adequate" protection on your part should not constitute a need for bolts on the part of every other climber who goes there forever and ever. Anyway, if you guys insist on putting your opinions out there, I will put mine out there. We will never agree. Feel free to let this stupid "debate" die. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pdk Posted January 26, 2010 Share Posted January 26, 2010 An inability to find "adequate" protection on your part should not constitute a need for bolts on the part of every other climber who goes there forever and ever. We will never agree. "adequate" protection is in the eye of the beholder. If I can solo 5.11, does that mean every route graded below that should never ever be bolted? Of course not. I'm certainly not suggesting every route be dumbed down to the lowest common denominator. But I find it hard to understand why someone would want to take what would otherwise be a classic route that can be enjoyed by lots of people, and restrict it a few hardmen simply because it theoretically could be done in better style. Again, if I can solo 5.11, can't I simply not clip the bolts? Or do the bolts need to be removed because I personally don't need them. There are hardman testpieces literally everywhere, whether they've been done or not. But there are very few long bolted moderate routes out there for the everyday climber - the exact kind of routes people use as stepping stones to becoming that hardman we all want to be. Look at Prime Rib. I bet there are lots of climbers out there who would laugh at all the bolts. But there is a reason Prime Rib gets climbed all the time, and a route like Gorillas in the Mist sits unclimbed for years before someone gets the FA. I don't expect us to agree. But I'd like to see people climbing this exact route using absolutely none of the bolts before people complain about them. I just don't see that happening. But have at it, I think it'd go a long way in this "debate" if people were regularly doing just that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete_H Posted January 26, 2010 Share Posted January 26, 2010 I'm certainly not suggesting every route be dumbed down to the lowest common denominator. Well ... I'd say that's exactly what has happened with IB and similar debacles put down by the routes progenitor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bug Posted January 26, 2010 Share Posted January 26, 2010 It is my understanding that there are just a few moves of 10a/b on the entire route. The difference between the number of people who get scetched out on 11 vs 10a/b is huge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete_H Posted January 26, 2010 Share Posted January 26, 2010 Look at that abortion on the east face of South Early. It goes at hard 5.13, but has mandatory 5.6. Talk about dumbed down for the masses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kukuzka1 Posted January 26, 2010 Share Posted January 26, 2010 thats the point it dosnt have to be climbed. theirs plenty of moderate bolted climbs to do out there and if you want to head to the mountais, do a route within your ability until you get more comfortable. theirs plenty for everyone. and if you must do a long bolted climb go to red rocks i believe their having or have hade a bolt war. and i dont know if that wall could have a classic on it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eldiente Posted January 26, 2010 Share Posted January 26, 2010 Look at that abortion on the east face of South Early. It goes at hard 5.13, but has mandatory 5.6. Talk about dumbed down for the masses. What route are you talking about on South Early Winter? Are you thinking of the Direct East Buttress? At last check, the bolt ladders climbed free at 5.11. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete_H Posted January 26, 2010 Share Posted January 26, 2010 Not Direct East Butt. There's a grid bolted 5.13 sport route on the east face of S Early rap bolted by same dude who did IB and a few other shit shows in the Cascades. A 5.6 climber could literally do the route. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted January 26, 2010 Share Posted January 26, 2010 this debate would be a whole lot cooler if there were a few retarded chimps throwing demented blops of their own excremetn against the wall every couple of minutes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete_H Posted January 26, 2010 Share Posted January 26, 2010 I'm sure Kevbone will post again soon enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted January 26, 2010 Share Posted January 26, 2010 Are you sure you didn't mean "fermented". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted January 26, 2010 Share Posted January 26, 2010 It is my understanding that there are just a few moves of 10a/b on the entire route. The difference between the number of people who get scetched out on 11 vs 10a/b is huge. More like 10c/d IMO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted January 26, 2010 Share Posted January 26, 2010 p1 - 5.6 / 120' / 2 bolts p2 - 5.4 / 110' / 4 bolts p3 - 5.4 / 100' / 2 bolts p4 - 5.6 / 100' / 9 bolts p5 - 5.5 / 110' / 9 bolts p6 - 5.7 / 160' / 5 bolts p7 - 5.6 / 190' / 7 bolts (walk) p8 - 5.5 / 200' / 3 bolts p9 - 5.9 / 160' / 10 bolts p10 - 5.8 / 100' / 7 bolts p11 - 10b / 90' / 9 bolts (walk) p12 - 5.8 / 110' / 6 bolts p13 - 5.2 / 130' / 1 bolts p14 - 5.7 / 160' / 10 bolts p15 - 5.2 / 160' / 2 bolts p16 - 5.0 / 80' / 0 bolts p17 - 5.0 / 140' / 0 bolts p18 - 5.8 / 110' / 8 bolts p19 - 10c / 130' / 17 bolts p20 - 5.7 / 60' / 2 bolts p21 - 10a / 180' / 15 bolts p22 - 5.8 / 160' / 11 bolts p23 - 5.9 / 90' / 14 bolts I'm sure it will make a great 51st classic climb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted January 26, 2010 Share Posted January 26, 2010 I'm sure it will make a great 51st classic climb. I totally agree. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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