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Duchess

Success cleaver

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does anyone have some current route info for the success cleaver routes? the mountain is looking pretty melted out these days...

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Per the Mt Rainier site, there are no reported ascents of this route this year. It is a rarely done route, and from what I have heard, for a good reason. It sucks. The kind of route to do when you have done everything else. If you want that same approach and solitude, climb the Tahoma Glacier.

 

Betty has spoken.

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I disagree big time.

That route does have sucky rock, a lot of rock fall, and some route finding issues (in fog). BUT it also is awesome for the following reasons:

1) No one does it - total isolation

2) Highest vertical gain of any route on Rainier, you leave from Longmire

3) No one does it - you don't run into any tracks or people

4) Awesome bivy sites at 13K

5) No one is on the route

6) Awesome views on route

7) Did I mention no one is on the route with you?

8) You summit on Success Point - still not seeing anyone

9) The hike to Indian Henry's Hunting Grounds is very beautiful

10) Watch meteor shower from 13.2K Bivy.

Some advice:

1) Don't climb Pyramid Peak and add an extra 3,000 vertical to the route's 12,000 vertical like we did

2) Bring a helmet - I didn't and was wigged out the whole time

3) If you have to rappel to the right ridge really check your anchor, then check again....

We did this route late in the year, a lot of rock was exposed. We really didn't have any problems, but rock fall was interesting. We went as a group of two, the end guy would yell if a rock was heading down, the leader would jump right or left to avoid it.

We had to do one rappel, the first anchor seemed good till a good reef on the webbing moved a linch-pin boulder. Had to set up a more elaborate anchor to safely rappel.

We climbed to the top of Pyramid peak, that really sucked. The high bivy made for an early summit, wish I would have descended the Emmons, would have had a full traverse of Rainier. Partner didn't think we would get a ride. Descended the DC route (sucked).

When I do it again, I will head up earlier in the year to see how different it is. We had huge sun cup starting at 13K, which didn't help.

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thanks for the words mr. radon. unfortunetly the weather precluded climbing this weekend. i'm afraid i'll have to wait until next year. (i personally prefer to NOT climb up and down on lots of loose rock). and thanks for the opinion betty, although i too disagree. nothing on rainier sucks. except for getting stuck in the middle of a cattle herd on the dc. cheers.

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