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Easy alpine rock climbs


spineguy

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anyone got any suggestions for some easy alpine rock this time of year that doesn't require to heavy a snow approach (i.e. crampons/axe required). I'm in tacoma so closer is better...is the tatoosh decent this time of year?.. I've also heard the tooth, and Lundin peak is good (snoqualmie pass area). I'd appreciate any info you got.

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That's a tough order, an axe is a pretty basic tool in these parts, especially early season. If not needed for the approach, it's often used on descent.

 

I'd highly recommend the SE Buttress on Mt Washington in the Olympics (10 pitches or so, not short), but you'll want an axe right now. Go in August and you'll likely be fine without.

 

Rock routes in the Tattosh are nothing to write home about, but its a great scrambling range with splendid views.

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Consider a trip to Darrington. It is definitely SUB-Alpine, but there are climbs one to ten pitches long, 5.6 to 5.12. A climb of Exfoliation Dome is very much a mountain climb - in a lowland Washington kind of way. Ingalls might be a good choice.

 

6857Blueberry_Route_8_-med.jpg(click for larger image).

 

You won't need an ice axe.

 

In another month, you'll be able to get to some of the real peaks without too much snow. I second Off's comment that the rock in the Tatoosh is not known for being good. Ingalls Peak might be a good choice.

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True fact there, Off White, but there is a reason climbs like Ingalls and The Tooth are popular: they are great climbs and easy. Exfo Dome is decidedly more serious or at least a lot bigger as a rock climb though the "winter route" is only 5.6 (it is called the "winter route" because it has bushes and drippage so it is not a highly recommended summer route, though I have actually enjoyed it as a summer climb when I was looking for the easiest way up the Dome.

 

Another good one is the W. Ridge of N. Twin Sister.

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I know it is not close but would be worth the drive for sure, the classic routes at washginton pass in july through september. Also, prime rib on goat wall is pretty good, very well protected bolts, and fairly alpine. Not a bad weekend area from tacoma.

 

I enjoyed the improbable traverse on guye peak in sno pass. The traverse is very protectable and not as bad as it looks.

 

Ingals peak would be an excellant choice too, as mentioned above.

 

The farther north you go,the more good routes are available. so get used to driving.

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