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Big Party on Unicorn Peak

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I climbed Unicorn Peak in the Tatoosh range on Saturday, along with 20 of my closest friends. [smile]


Okay, so there were only nine in our party, but at the trailhead we ran into a party of 12 Mazamas heading up, too. Many of us knew each other, so we joked about who was going to kick steps for whom. The Mazamas got out in front by about 15 minutes and navigated a nice path to Snow Lake. Our groups passed each other a couple of times in the snow chutes and upper saddle, and we arrived at the summit pinnacle around the same time.


We set up two top ropes for adjacent ~5.4 routes and a fixed line for an easier ~5.1 route. It was an efficient and safe process getting the 21 people up to the summit, many of who were beginner climbers. We all baked in the sun for a while, shared some good leader treats, and then descended on two rap lines.


While on top, a Mountaineers group of 7 or 8 arrived at the base of the rock. They ate lunch and waited patiently for us to start descending before starting on the rock.


I was pleased to see that we could all have a great day in the mountains with two large groups climbing in such close proximity. No accidents or injuries, and everyone made the summit.


Conditions: soft but stable snow, and great glissading down the upper bowls and through the chute to Snow Lake.



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I was with a private party (although most of us are Mazamas).


Leader treats: Any kind of food bribe to get on future climbs or reward for taking you along. A Mazamas tradition to entice leaders to stay involved with the club. [chubit]



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