looking for the perfect belay jacket

[lightning]

I am looking for a good (also not so expensive)belay jacket. I would like it to be on the lighter end, be fairly compressable and have a 2 way zipper(for the belay device).

 

So far I have looked at:

Moonstone Cirris hooded jacket

OR zero jacket

Patagonia micro puff and DAS

 

This will be a 4 season jacket used in all sorts of applications (sport,ice and alpine climbing)

 

Which would you chose or are there others that I am overlooking?

Edited May 26, 2006 by lightning

[Knottygirl]

I have a the Mountain Hardware down jacket and I love it...it doesn't have a two way zipper...it was a good price, compresses down, and fits underneath other coats, plus I feel its pretty tough.

[lightning]

Thanks but I would prefer a snythetic jacket, because I already own a down vest.

[layton]

go-light 6-month night

[crackers]

old discontinued MEC synthetic parka that was orange. frigging awesome! totally tubular! the best ever!

 

(have i been on telemarktwts.com?...hmmm...)

[willstrickland]

GoLite 6mo night is a good 'un. 2 way zip, big hood, couple big ol mesh pockets inside and handwarmer pockets outside and if you can find one they're cheap. Paid $70 for mine IIRC. I think GoLight quit making it though?. Also just an FYI they are sized big, i.e. you won't need to up size it to fit over the rest of your clothes.

[MattStan]

Take a look at the Wild Things EP Jacket (similar weight to a Puff) or their Belay Jacket (similar weight to a DAS). WT has a clearance sale going on right now on those, http://www.wildthingsgear.com/clearancepage.html

[underworld]

i vote for the OR jacket.

 

i also have the 6-month-er too... it's effin huge. got it cuz it was hella-cheap, but seams more of an expedition and/or winter parka.

[Couloir]

MH Voodoo Belay Jacket

 

There is some extensive discussion on this topic here.

[lightning]

I wish their(MHW) Chugach Jacket came with the option of a hood.

[whidbey]

The new mammut with hood is the shit. It's almost to warm for most stuff in the pnw.... damn nice just the same though. I think it's called the cloud or something like that? correct me if'n i'm wrong. Had to special order it from Feathered friends just to get it.

[NYC007]

the mammut one is nice as is the patty one below th DAS ( a lil too much for around here), I have the moonstone and like it alot compresses more then the patty jacket, pretty light, less bulk then the 6 month too. I would suggest the mammut or the moonstone, STAY AWAY FROM DOWN,...

[MattStan]

I think Moonstone unfortunately quit making the hooded version a year or two ago. Not to mention that they'll likely and sadly cease to exist since being bought up by Columbia as part of the Pacific Trail bankruptcy acquisition. Another good small brand bites the dust ...

[Delmarco]

The new mammut with hood is the shit. It's almost to warm for most stuff in the pnw.... damn nice just the same though. I think it's called the cloud or something like that? correct me if'n i'm wrong. Had to special order it from Feathered friends just to get it.

 

Its called the stratus....

http://www.mtntools.com/cat/techwear/Down/mammutstratushoodedjacketvest.htm

 

What about the North Face RedPoint Optimus?

I'm also shopping around for a belay synthetic for an upcoming Patagonia trip.

[chris]

Take a look at the Wild Things EP Jacket (similar weight to a Puff) or their Belay Jacket (similar weight to a DAS). WT has a clearance sale going on right now on those, http://www.wildthingsgear.com/clearancepage.html

I give a second vote for the Belay Jacket. I've used it in cold conditions in the Cascades, BC, Alaska, South America and China. If that's too cold for you, then take a step down and go with the EP Jacket. Both are synthetic filled and use epic fabric for wate repellency.

[whidbey]

Delmarco... You are right... I have this jacket and love it... But for most stuff in the NW the EP or the non hooded stratus would be plenty.

[slooper]

fyi, rei outlet just put up the moonstone non-hooded jacket $90

[selkirk]

Go-Lite Coal if you can find them

also friggin cheap and not quite so bit as the 6-month-night

Had mine for a couple of years and does a nice job! Prett sweet at $30

[Mark_Husbands]

for not too cold i use the MEC Northernlite (hoodless) currently on sale on MEC website. 3oz primaloft. goes into its own pocket for racking.

[Chad_A]

Take a look at the Wild Things EP Jacket (similar weight to a Puff) or their Belay Jacket (similar weight to a DAS). WT has a clearance sale going on right now on those, http://www.wildthingsgear.com/clearancepage.html

I give a second vote for the Belay Jacket. I've used it in cold conditions in the Cascades, BC, Alaska, South America and China. If that's too cold for you, then take a step down and go with the EP Jacket. Both are synthetic filled and use epic fabric for wate repellency.

 

Third vote for the Belay Jacket. Worked great on the Grand this year. Very user friendly; the pull-tabs on the zippers/hood cinches are great for thick gloves.

[dbconlin]

I am thinking about the mont-bell UL thermawrap parka...anybody have any comments on that one?

[ericb]

I've got an older synthetic pre-pockets, pre-hood version and love it. Very warm for the weight, but I'm not sure if it would be warm enough for really cold high alpine conditions. I generally carried it for day ski tours more as an emergency layer, and as a camp/belay jacket for summer climbs.