JosephH Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 (edited) FYI, These had been used fairly hard as doubled and tripled trad draws out at Beacon over two seasons plus a trip to Red Rocks. I randomly grabbed two off my rack (all my draws are these slings) and had them tested: - Short one broke @ 12.93 kN (2902 lbf) - Long one broke @ 19.85 kN (4466 lbf) Both failed the full strength standard (4950 lbf) for slings. I love these things but they're probably only good for a season. Mine are all from Mammut as I like the way they join / finish them, but in light of this info I think of them differently as they're a bit pricier as an annual consumable. Edited May 25, 2006 by JosephH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 Interesting. Where did you have them tested? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 Hey Joseph, Did you notice an inordinate amount of wear over the bar tacking?? I've taken to taping over mine...that stuff is just like hardfacing on cat blades/scoops...it seems to attract a lot of wear there... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrogdortheBurninator Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 How did you have them tested? Are you certain they were tested to the same procedure which they were certified at? Did they show obvious signs of wear, and did they fail at the wear points? I have a few of these that are a few years old as well, just curious if I need to get some new ones. I suppose I could test some myself if I wanted to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted May 25, 2006 Author Share Posted May 25, 2006 AlpinFox, A friend tested them on their QC test rig. Not a statistical sample by any means, but the testing was done on a rig used for this purpose. RuMR, I didn't see any untowards wear on the tacking of mine (and they didn't break at the tacking). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted May 25, 2006 Author Share Posted May 25, 2006 TrogdortheBurninator, there were no real visually discernable "wear points" - but they were fairly uniformly "burred/haired out" from use. More testing would be good. I'll probably replace all of mine and have these tested so I'll keep you posted when that happens... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
still_climbin Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 How were they stored? Dyneema does't like sun or heat. It's basically polyethelene. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ian Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewt...w=&start=15 there is a similar post at rc.com.....a guy from Sterling Ropes did the drop tests....basically spectra and dyneema failed and the nylon ones didn't. somebody suggested something about the tests for slings being a 'slow pull' test rather than a dynamic test. test results: Here is a sample of the tests: 11/16" nylon, impact force 18.4kN, held 1" nylon, impact force 21.11kN, held 1/2" Spectra, impact force, 20.02kN, failed 5/8" Spectra, impact force, 19.2kN, failed 10mm Dyneema, impact force, 18.9kN, failed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted May 25, 2006 Author Share Posted May 25, 2006 Still climbin - Hmmm, "stored", they just kicked around with my rack in all the places it went: basement, packs, cars, airplanes, etc. Other than trying to remember to not leave my shoes in the trunk I don't think about how things are stored (nor do I really want to have to worry about such things). ian - I've got a ton of 20-30 year old nylon supertape slings; I'll throw a couple of them into the mix next time and see how they fair. Thanks for the link... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 Thanks for posting this, Joseph. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 Static or dynamic test? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 I know that Dyneema and Spectra are more affected by UV. It could have something to do with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jopa Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 FYI, These had been used fairly hard as doubled and tripled trad draws out at Beacon over two seasons plus a trip to Red Rocks. I randomly grabbed two off my rack (all my draws are these slings) and had them tested: - Short one broke @ 12.93 kN (2902 lbf) - Long one broke @ 19.85 kN (4466 lbf) Both failed the full strength standard (4950 lbf) for slings. I love these things but they're probably only good for a season. Mine are all from Mammut as I like the way they join / finish them, but in light of this info I think of them differently as they're a bit pricier as an annual consumable. 12.93 kN is still strong enough, no? Aren't most cam slings rated at about 16 kN? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 You should have tested some brand new ones at the same time for comparison purposes.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 Thanks for the report JH. I've been using the skinny Mammuts now as well. I'll contribute some slings if you ever do it again. I have some sewn bluewater runners that date to 1991, wonder what they are testing to these days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 Joseph, thanks for doing these tests. I'm sure the results are raising some eyebrows. I'm sure many of us would be interested in seeing the results of a larger test, and as Bill offered, I'd happily contribute some slings too (though mine aren't nearly as old as Bill's ). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted May 25, 2006 Author Share Posted May 25, 2006 G-spotter, Bill, and Gary - the idea of testing a couple of new/newer ones in the mix is a good one. I'll let you know when I'm going to do the next round and we can see what we can put together. I'll also have to check with my friend as to what he might be will to do as I don't want to overwhelm him either. My main take away from this is that it probably is a bad idea to belay with a grigri/cinch or any other relatively static device when climbing trad on these rascals... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 as someone always get's aroudn to saying, feel free to send me the gear you think needs retiring Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 We'll send it to ya after it's tested. Hows that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luwayo Posted May 26, 2006 Share Posted May 26, 2006 do you fellows ever wash your bandschlingens? i finished 2.5hrs of taping gear on the weekend, and was wondering about the rather grey coloured floss. on another note but related to floss, i'm irked by how some of my pieces regularly catch, namely the nano crabs and also the cam pin on my aliens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted May 26, 2006 Share Posted May 26, 2006 Static or dynamic test? Slow pull is dynamic, I believe... Joseph? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris Posted May 26, 2006 Share Posted May 26, 2006 Wow, thanks for the information, Joseph. Mine are 3 years old. I did take some full fledged 15+ foot falls this winter on a few of them without notice, but I was starting to consider replacing them anyways. I'll be happy to mail you a stack of dyneema slings next time your doing a test set. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted May 26, 2006 Share Posted May 26, 2006 do you fellows ever wash your bandschlingens? i finished 2.5hrs of taping gear on the weekend, and was wondering about the rather grey coloured floss. on another note but related to floss, i'm irked by how some of my pieces regularly catch, namely the nano crabs and also the cam pin on my aliens. better spray it all with tri-flow! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted May 26, 2006 Share Posted May 26, 2006 anybody know a vendor rep that can comment on this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted May 26, 2006 Share Posted May 26, 2006 Damn Joseph, you're like the Ralph Nader of climbing gear. BTW, I have a message for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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