Kyle_Flick Posted May 22, 2006 Share Posted May 22, 2006 (edited) Climb: Snowcreek Wall-Hyperspace Date of Climb: 5/21/2006 Trip Report: With misgivings all around, Telemarker and I meandered our way up to the Pressure Chamber pitch. Afternoon rainshowers didn't bother us in the deep bowels of the left side of the shield. It did add to our concern about the last pitch that might involve slippery exposed slabs. But for now we were dry watching the curtain of wetness twenty feet out from us. Telemarker with a mix of free and aid made his way up the horror show with the only exit awaiting him--an ugly overhanging offwidth. For those of you hardmen who can free that climb, my hat is off to you. But for those of us mere mortals, we were shell shocked (and I only jugged the pitch). On the last pitch I was able to avoid the sickening exposure of the left step across on wet slab by aiding straight up under the dripping last roof and traversing out left. However, I made the mistake of backcleaning a piece to avoid rope drag which made it more difficult for the second. We were fortunate not to epic. Telemarker may post a couple of pictures when he can summon the strength to revisit the nightmare by developing his film. Gear Notes: Medium rack to 4 inches. Approach Notes: Dry, less ticks. Edited May 22, 2006 by Kyle_Flick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyHarry Posted May 22, 2006 Share Posted May 22, 2006 Ambitious, Kyle. That section above the pressure chamber is definitly funky. You either have to top out with horrible rope stretch or have to build a belay in a shitty spot with a (most likely) severely depleted rack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle_Flick Posted May 22, 2006 Author Share Posted May 22, 2006 Pete, Now that you mention it, you're absolutely right. I was stopped short of the top with rope drag nearly pulling my harness (and my pants with it) down around my knees. The anchor I built was in crappy rock and could have used more pieces the right size. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted May 23, 2006 Share Posted May 23, 2006 I'd disagree on the size pro needed. Future suckahs should only take pro up to 3 inches, or blue camalot. Extras in the two inch range. We had one 3.5 camalot and I think Kyle placed it once at a belay stance. I never found occasion to place it at all. Pressure chamber pitch takes nuts very nicely, and lots of 2 inch gear. BTW, I bootied five stoppers, three of which sported nice wiregate biners still attached. Muchos denkus! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted May 23, 2006 Share Posted May 23, 2006 i'm thinking about doing it this monday. I went left by accident last time. Any beta for after the 5.9 crack after the 5.11- pitch? Is it a non-obvious traverse out right or something. I went left, suckered in by two fresh looking anchor bolts below a steep hard thin dihedral i went up that ended in a mossy roof. ring a bell? ps. f'in awesome job fininshin that in weather! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle_Flick Posted May 23, 2006 Author Share Posted May 23, 2006 Michael, I did just what you did above Psychopath a couple of years ago. Just go right from the belay instead of left. It's real obvious and clean. Also continue that pitch past the slinged boulder and set the anchor after the double corners for a full 200'. It lines you up nicely for the next pitch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyHarry Posted May 23, 2006 Share Posted May 23, 2006 i'm thinking about doing it this monday. Wasn't that yesterday? You finally get that flux copasitor installed in the Delorian, or what? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatswaller Posted May 23, 2006 Share Posted May 23, 2006 I don't remember the section above the pressure chamber as being that difficult.We stepped right and up a crack to exit the chamber.Then traversed left and up a short steep crack to the top. From the belay just below the pressure chamber,we made the top in one pitch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyHarry Posted May 23, 2006 Share Posted May 23, 2006 That's probably smart to belay just below the pressure chamber instead of way below it like I've done in the past. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted May 23, 2006 Share Posted May 23, 2006 I don't remember the section above the pressure chamber as being that difficult.We stepped right and up a crack to exit the chamber.Then traversed left and up a short steep crack to the top. From the belay just below the pressure chamber,we made the top in one pitch. Drenched lichen and moss and swirling clouds made the pitch feel much more difficult. But in dry conditions, it probably would be fun with the exposed step across below the final roof. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted May 24, 2006 Share Posted May 24, 2006 (edited) A few photos from the day's climbing. Flick (previous climb of Iconoclast last summer) on pitch above psychopath pitch. One of the few cruiser pitches of hyperspace. Pressure chamber pitch. Sorry for the lousy quality. Crappy print film with cheapo auto camera. Steep and damn hard. It's strange but I was so wrapped up in the climbing, I looked out from the belay to see the weather had turned to shit at some point. Flick topping out on slickery chicken heads, near the top. Snow creek wall from a safe distance afterwards. Edited May 24, 2006 by telemarker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted May 24, 2006 Share Posted May 24, 2006 i'm thinking about doing it this monday. Wasn't that yesterday? You finally get that flux copasitor installed in the Delorian, or what? That's his secret for how to keep his girlfriend during climbing season. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted May 24, 2006 Share Posted May 24, 2006 Nice job dudes. Glad to see somebody is out there gettin some. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted May 24, 2006 Share Posted May 24, 2006 Hey, do you head RIGHT after this pitch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lunger Posted May 24, 2006 Share Posted May 24, 2006 Hey Mike, From there (as i recall) you go up and left from the blocky belay, you'll see an improbably steep (for .10) wall, will feel like gear-protected sport climbing for a bit, moving left then up. Maybe see you in 11worth this weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted May 24, 2006 Share Posted May 24, 2006 Hey, do you head RIGHT after this pitch? You'll go around that second roof on the left and up to some boulders and one with a ton of retreat slings. The face and flakes above are no harder than 5.9 face, the crack below him in the picture is no harder than 5.6. Pass a couple overlaps to the base of the yellow 5.11 wall. This is the combined pitch Kyle was talking about, nearly 200 feet from the top of the psychopath pitch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 Hey, do you head RIGHT after this pitch? You'll go around that second roof on the left and up to some boulders and one with a ton of retreat slings. The face and flakes above are no harder than 5.9 face, the crack below him in the picture is no harder than 5.6. Pass a couple overlaps to the base of the yellow 5.11 wall. This is the combined pitch Kyle was talking about, nearly 200 feet from the top of the psychopath pitch. Ok! So at those belay bolts at the base of the 5.11yellow wall (that I climbed by accident) head right, not up. I just don't want to go back and f' it up again. Gracias. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle_Flick Posted May 25, 2006 Author Share Posted May 25, 2006 No, Mike go up and right from the belay at the top of Psychopath (not up and left to the bolts). There are no bolts at top of the next pitch. You'll see what we're talking about when you get there and match up the features to the picture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.