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european alpine climbing grades


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To add to Don's post, here is a comparison of some Euro and USA routes graded with Euro grades. I stole this from an article KM is gonna have in the 2002 CAJ...

EuropeEiger, 1938 Route ED1/2Mont Blanc, Central Pillar Freney ED1Grandes Jorasses, Walker Spur ED1Les Droites, Northeast Spur TD+Mont Blanc, Red Sentinel D+Aiguille du Midi, Frendo Spur D+Tour Ronde, North Face DMatterhorn, Hornli Ridge AD+Les Courtes, Cordier Route ADMont Blanc, Standard route PD+

United StatesBear Mt, North Face 1967 TDGrand Teton, North Face D+Pingora, Northeast Face D+Mt Stuart, North Ridge Complete D+Nooksack Tower, Beckey-Schmidtke D+Grand Teton, Complete Exum Ridge DGrand Teton, Black Ice Couloir DMt. Rainier, Liberty Ridge DShuksan, Price Glacier DMt Whitney, East Buttress D-Mt. Redoubt, Northeast Face AD+Mt. Baker, North Ridge ADMt Whitney, East Face ADForbidden Peak, West Ridge ADPingora, South Buttress ADMt. Shuksan, Fisher Chimneys AD-Mt. Rainier, Standard Route PD+

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MW Alpine Hero,

I'll second whomever's vote for climbing up at the Liberty Bell group, up at Washington Pass off Highway 20. Short approach and scenic climbing. The drive from Seattle is long but very scenic. Or try the Tooth up near Snoqualmie Pass off Interstate 90. Same with getting the Selected Climbs in the Cascades books someone previously mentioned, lots of good ideas there.

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