[TR] The Tooth- South Face 5/16/2006

[scheissami]

Climb: The Tooth-South Face

 

Date of Climb: 5/16/2006

 

Trip Report:

With the onset of warm weather lately, my buddy Jim and I thought we'd try out the Tooth yesterday. Since we live in PDX it'd be an all-day trip for us, but that suited us fine--since we're novices, we figured it'd fill up our day nicely. I noticed a request for a TR in another thread, so here we go...

 

Left PDX around 3:30am. Got to the TH just after 7am. The hike in was pleasant--cool initially, but we quickly warmed up. The snow was quite soft already, making kicking steps easy wherever there wasn't a bootpack. Didn't know what to expect so I brought crampons but certainly didn't need them.

 

Actually, we got more of a workout than we had planned for--I learned my beginner's lesson yesterday, which is don't rely on just one guidebook. Nelson's approach notes probably would've been fine, but the trail diverging wasn't marked and we didn't see it due to snowcover. That added up to about a 2 hour detour as we headed "along the right-hand (east) side of the valley." Big oops. We ended up on the slope east of Source Lake. Anyway, after a couple of extra hours backtracking and a bunch of cursing, we made it to the base of the climb about noon.

 

There was a party of five ahead of us, climbing as a group of three with a group of two at the top of the first pitch. We waited for over ONE HOUR for them to get up the second pitch. The two groups were jibber-jabbering at each other with walkie-talkies! This was probably fine, though, since my legs felt like jello from tripling the approach time.

 

Anyway, we got on the route at 1:30pm. Here's me heading up the first pitch:

 

The route was in fine condition--no snow anywhere. The sun was absolutely pummelling us, though it was a nice change after a long winter. I did a good job of messing everything up yesterday--I managed to link together the pitches in such a way as to create as much rope drag as possible. Although a 60m rope will reach, don't combine pitch 3 & 4 (I did it just so I wouldn't have to wait for all five of those above us to rap through us, but on more mature reflection, I probably would've enjoyed the final pitch more if I had waited).

 

Here's Jim showing me how to live at the top of the second pitch:

 

We topped out via the direct variation just as the party above us was beginning to rap down.

 

Jim reaching the summit:

 

Stellar views from the top:

 

We got back down after 5pm. As we were hiking out we passed two guys headed for a quick lap.

 

Looking back at the Tooth from the southeast:

 

Despite the major screw up on the way in, we had an awesome time. Definitely a fun, easy route. I'm gonna head back in another month or two to share the love with some of my other friends new to climbing.

 

 

Gear Notes:

Used: 60m rope, set of stoppers, set of cams

 

Didn't need: crampons

 

Approach Notes:

Still lots of snow--boots/gaiters probably a good idea. Trekking poles super nice; didn't need the ice axe but probably would still take it.

 

Learned my lesson: check out a map before heading out.

[chucK]

[Ed_Hobbick]

Cool! I was wondering what the conditions were like up there. This is one of my favorite peaks.

[olyclimber]

here was a party of five ahead of us, climbing as a group of three with a group of two at the top of the first pitch. We waited for over ONE HOUR for them to get up the second pitch. The two groups were jibber-jabbering at each other with walkie-talkies!

 

Oh my!!! that is damn funny. thanks for das toof stoke!

[Rad]

Nice post.

 

CC needs more folks like yourself willing to post their moderate adventures here. As you've seen, lots of others will read and appreciate them.

 

Your story also reminds me of the number one reason to wear a helmet: people above you might drop their expensive toys on your head!

 

Cheers,

 

Rad

[Weekend_Climberz]

Nice TR!

 

And yet no spray, which must be a first. This was my first rock peak that I did when I was 15 and I still love going back in there, though I usually pick a weekday if I can.

[ericb]

I'm thinking about heading up there Saturday for a combined A/T - rock trip....from what you could see, is it skiable all the way to the alpental lot?

[HappyCamper]

There was plenty of snow last Friday to get all the way down to the lot (no exposed dirt patches anywhere).

[scheissami]

I'm no skier, so I won't make any promises but the snow cover definitely extends to the lot. While we were up on the rock we saw one skier drop into the bowl below the Tooth. I'd say you're probably good to go.

 

I appreciate the lack of spray, too, though having spent a reasonable amount of time reading stuff on this site I can assure you that I'm always prepared for the worst. In any case, we had a pretty rad trip.

 

Cheers.

[ericfrench]

Pineapple Pass is very skiable (as of last Sun at least). The spring corn was perfect as I started down at 11am. Was able to ski all the way to Lot 3.