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gyselinck

[TR] Mount Stuart- Northwest Face Couloir 5/13/2006

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Climb: Mount Stuart-Northwest Face Couloir

 

Date of Climb: 5/13/2006

 

Trip Report:

As usual, shoulder seasons suck. Ryan and I spent the entire week trying to figure out what to climb, changing our minds about 14 times. Friday night we finally decided on the Northwest Face Couloir of Mount Stuart. I had already been unsuccessful on the Northeast Face this year and was eager to get up that mountain.

 

We bivied high on the moraine with the intent on carrying all our gear over. As usual the scenery was ugly.

 

About all I have to say is this climb is now my most favorite mixed/ice route I’ve ever done. The climbing was difficult; it seemed as if every pitch had a crux, ice conditions were thin. It took us 12 hours on route, approximately 15 pitches. It made for a really long day. I ain't used to this kind of abuse with all the sittin' around I've been doing. My whole body hurts. tongue.gif

 

 

High bivies:

6146100_0421.jpg

 

Looking down from pitch one, estimated 5.9+, bottom ice pitch was non existant:

6146100_0431.jpg

 

Making slow progress through difficult rock bands:

6146100_0437.jpg

 

 

Ryan starting up a difficult dihedral:

6146100_0438.jpg

 

Higher up:

6146100_0445.jpg

 

Ice runnels nearing the summit:

6146100_0451.jpg

 

Gear Notes:

-Twin 50m ropes

-brought 4 screws, didnt use

-large rock rack

-1 picket, more would've been better

-tools and crampons, of course

 

Approach Notes:

North side approach. Easy going (3 hours, not pushig ourselves)

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Nice! We must have walked right by and didn't see yall. Where were you on the face around 8 AM Saturday morning?

 

zIMG_3479.JPG

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Damn it Craig! I get shut down 2 weekends in a row and then you go bag it the next weekend! cry.gifcry.gifcry.gif Obviously your success depended on the boot pack I and others installed tongue.gifyellaf.gif

 

Good work d00d! You almost got all the north side routes done! thumbs_up.gif

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