gyselinck Posted May 15, 2006 Share Posted May 15, 2006 Climb: Mount Stuart-Northwest Face Couloir Date of Climb: 5/13/2006 Trip Report: As usual, shoulder seasons suck. Ryan and I spent the entire week trying to figure out what to climb, changing our minds about 14 times. Friday night we finally decided on the Northwest Face Couloir of Mount Stuart. I had already been unsuccessful on the Northeast Face this year and was eager to get up that mountain. We bivied high on the moraine with the intent on carrying all our gear over. As usual the scenery was ugly. About all I have to say is this climb is now my most favorite mixed/ice route I’ve ever done. The climbing was difficult; it seemed as if every pitch had a crux, ice conditions were thin. It took us 12 hours on route, approximately 15 pitches. It made for a really long day. I ain't used to this kind of abuse with all the sittin' around I've been doing. My whole body hurts. High bivies: Looking down from pitch one, estimated 5.9+, bottom ice pitch was non existant: Making slow progress through difficult rock bands: Ryan starting up a difficult dihedral: Higher up: Ice runnels nearing the summit: Gear Notes: -Twin 50m ropes -brought 4 screws, didnt use -large rock rack -1 picket, more would've been better -tools and crampons, of course Approach Notes: North side approach. Easy going (3 hours, not pushig ourselves) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted May 15, 2006 Share Posted May 15, 2006 Nice work Craig! from my hike yesterday morning (5/14)... Larger of same pic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbconlin Posted May 15, 2006 Share Posted May 15, 2006 Sweet! Looks like a lot of rock... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted May 15, 2006 Share Posted May 15, 2006 Nice! We must have walked right by and didn't see yall. Where were you on the face around 8 AM Saturday morning? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen_Ramsey Posted May 15, 2006 Share Posted May 15, 2006 Gyselinck, Nice TR and pics! Thanks for posting. Cheers, Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted May 15, 2006 Share Posted May 15, 2006 Damn it Craig! I get shut down 2 weekends in a row and then you go bag it the next weekend! Obviously your success depended on the boot pack I and others installed Good work d00d! You almost got all the north side routes done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gyselinck Posted May 15, 2006 Author Share Posted May 15, 2006 I deserved this shit. After about 4 failures in a row, it's about time I got up something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted May 15, 2006 Share Posted May 15, 2006 Dude! Is that a #5 purple c4!?!?!? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chriznitch Posted May 15, 2006 Share Posted May 15, 2006 very cool, even with that gratuitous crotch shot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlegV Posted May 19, 2006 Share Posted May 19, 2006 Very very nice!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weekend_Climberz Posted May 19, 2006 Share Posted May 19, 2006 Nice pics and sweet route! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad_A Posted May 20, 2006 Share Posted May 20, 2006 Wow, I've been wanting to do that one. Very cool. Kudos to you guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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