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[TR] Mount Stuart- Northwest Face Couloir 5/13/2006

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Climb: Mount Stuart-Northwest Face Couloir


Date of Climb: 5/13/2006


Trip Report:

As usual, shoulder seasons suck. Ryan and I spent the entire week trying to figure out what to climb, changing our minds about 14 times. Friday night we finally decided on the Northwest Face Couloir of Mount Stuart. I had already been unsuccessful on the Northeast Face this year and was eager to get up that mountain.


We bivied high on the moraine with the intent on carrying all our gear over. As usual the scenery was ugly.


About all I have to say is this climb is now my most favorite mixed/ice route I’ve ever done. The climbing was difficult; it seemed as if every pitch had a crux, ice conditions were thin. It took us 12 hours on route, approximately 15 pitches. It made for a really long day. I ain't used to this kind of abuse with all the sittin' around I've been doing. My whole body hurts. tongue.gif



High bivies:



Looking down from pitch one, estimated 5.9+, bottom ice pitch was non existant:



Making slow progress through difficult rock bands:




Ryan starting up a difficult dihedral:



Higher up:



Ice runnels nearing the summit:



Gear Notes:

-Twin 50m ropes

-brought 4 screws, didnt use

-large rock rack

-1 picket, more would've been better

-tools and crampons, of course


Approach Notes:

North side approach. Easy going (3 hours, not pushig ourselves)

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Nice! We must have walked right by and didn't see yall. Where were you on the face around 8 AM Saturday morning?



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Damn it Craig! I get shut down 2 weekends in a row and then you go bag it the next weekend! cry.gifcry.gifcry.gif Obviously your success depended on the boot pack I and others installed tongue.gifyellaf.gif


Good work d00d! You almost got all the north side routes done! thumbs_up.gif

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