marek Posted February 15, 2002 Share Posted February 15, 2002 for those interested in mt rainier.myself and 3 others (i will not mention names since some called in sick)went for ingraham direct on feb 12-13.i think that harry wapler and jeff renners should hang at the same tree for they now 100% inacurate weather forecast.ok let,s get to the climb.we went to the muir on the 12th with light winds and snow conditions being very good.we all made it at around 4hrs.(dru)the fumes at the hut were just fine--brethable(again-english!!) we left the hut at 5am with light wind,s and some gust,s.we got to the flat,s at the sunrise.snow at the flat,s was at times knee deep but mostly less.ingraham in very good condition with boot high snow.at the beginning of ingraham glacier proper wind,s started incrising up to 40-50 mph with blindning spinn drift,s,to the point that you could not see anyone on the rope.i led from muir to 12,500 ft (top of dc)then another polish plow took over.at that time wind,s were steady 50mph with stonger gust,s and ever present spinn drift in our faces.as we got higher the wind,s increased as well.the route above dc was in good condition as well,with few minor crevasse crossings.when we got to 14,000 ft (baromether and visual contact with crater rimm,5-10 min walk) we decided to turn around.we were not able to force our way against the wind,let alone walk.the last 15 min we were basicly on our feet and hands, and still being blown away.as we walked down the mountain,wind,s picked up as well.spinn drift,s on ingraham reduced visibility to none.at that time i fell in to crevasse twice (my first time). and like that all way to muir.after we packed we went the snow-field in constant 40-60 mph wind,s. and ever present spinn drifts.pann point being foged inn ad the darkness aproaching,we got lost a bit(auch!!)but safely made it to the car by 8 pm.a hart breaking turn around,but it could not be done in the conditions we were in. for those commentin this tread, please stick to the story! othervise create your own tread! respectfully marek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllYouCanEat Posted February 15, 2002 Share Posted February 15, 2002 What altitude did you fall in the crevasse at? Two of us fell in one at 13500 on january 9. I feel your pain about not summiting. We skinned from Pan Point to the summit crater where we decided to turn around. Oh well, maybe next time... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marek Posted February 15, 2002 Author Share Posted February 15, 2002 it was at around 11,500 on ingraham glacier,right above some ice cliffs in the middle of the glacier."live and lern" you got it right!! thank,s for your info of the route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David_Parker Posted February 15, 2002 Share Posted February 15, 2002 Unless you have never climbed Rainier, I wouldn't be upset with not standing on the very top. If you were at 14,000+, as far as I'm concerned you climbed the mountain! My 3rd time up my partner felt satisfied waiting at the rim while I walked across and up the last little bit. I had to do it but if conditions were like what you describe, I wouldn't be bummed. Hell of an effort!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hikerwa Posted February 15, 2002 Share Posted February 15, 2002 Amen to DP, I say you made it, as they horseshoes and hand grenades....(maybe mountaineering) great report...thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marek Posted February 16, 2002 Author Share Posted February 16, 2002 thank,s guys for your positive support!i know we gave it all we had.but i,ll try again next winter as well.i have summited rainier 9 times via 7 routes and this winter summit is just about the last thing i,m really interested in on rainier. gib ledges should be just fine,there is plenty of snow on the mountain.last year in january there was very thin ice,about 1/4 inch thick,so we tried the first section and then bailed since there was no protection at all.the rock is shitty,i would not put pro into this.of course we could not use screws as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted February 16, 2002 Share Posted February 16, 2002 what is your impression of Gib Ledges as of yesterday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan_Larson Posted February 17, 2002 Share Posted February 17, 2002 Give it up Dru, or we will take back that gold medal your figure skaters got for crying. Whiney assed canucks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted February 17, 2002 Share Posted February 17, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dan Larson: Give it up Dru, or we will take back that gold medal your figure skaters got for crying. Whiney assed canucks What secret substance do you think helped them in their performance? Rebagliati style... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan_Larson Posted February 17, 2002 Share Posted February 17, 2002 Maybe for relaxing, but for the precision moves and jumps I would say something more in the form of a stimulant.....eh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted February 17, 2002 Share Posted February 17, 2002 Maybe it was the French/Algerian "Free Afghanistan" hash the judges were smoking...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan_Larson Posted February 18, 2002 Share Posted February 18, 2002 quote: Originally posted by marek:for those commentin this tread, please stick to the story! othervise create your own tread!respectfully marek[/QB] DRUUUUUU started it [ 02-17-2002: Message edited by: Dan Larson ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted February 18, 2002 Share Posted February 18, 2002 I was just commenting on Marek's heroic accomplishment - Dan was the one who brought spray into it (unless we consider than any mention of DL constitues spray in and of itself). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Figger_Eight Posted February 18, 2002 Share Posted February 18, 2002 Any mention of Dan Larson constitutes Spray itself. Dan Larson is Spray in human form. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan_Larson Posted February 18, 2002 Share Posted February 18, 2002 Ah.. the followers return. I promised myself I would be good and play well with others so this is all you get. [ 02-17-2002: Message edited by: Dan Larson ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted February 18, 2002 Share Posted February 18, 2002 quote: Originally posted by marek: .i have summited rainier 9 times via 7 routes . DAN LARSON LOVES YOU MAREK!!!!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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