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City Park sees new free ascent?


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There's an article about this in the new Climbing Issue 250 Collector's Edition, p.24. The article relates that in 1986 "local climbers," fearing Todd Skinner was close to making the climb, poured motor oil down the crack to prevent this from happening. Skinner used a blowtorch to burn out the oil but missed some at the top and had top bail to Godzilla.

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And they claim that Hugh Herr's ascent doesnt count. Fucking bullshit Climbing wankery. The guy doesn't have any real flesh and blood feet, he can choose whatever size feet he wants in my opinion. mad.gif

 

Props to Herr - proud ascent no doubt - but when you have "feet" that fit perfectly into the tiny crack AND don't get tired, something tells me you can't compare the two. Kinda like wheelchair records in marathons (faster!)

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Wheelchairs are common enough they can form a class of their own, but injuries like Hugh Herr's are not. So there is no one except other free climbers to compare him to. It seems to me like disqualifying an "in a day" ascent by Erik Weihenmyer because he's blind and therefore doesn't have to use a headlamp to navigate at night.

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And they claim that Hugh Herr's ascent doesnt count. Fucking bullshit Climbing wankery. The guy doesn't have any real flesh and blood feet, he can choose whatever size feet he wants in my opinion. mad.gif

 

Props to Herr - proud ascent no doubt - but when you have "feet" that fit perfectly into the tiny crack AND don't get tired, something tells me you can't compare the two. Kinda like wheelchair records in marathons (faster!)

 

Climbing #255 has a Letter to the Editor from Herr about City Park where he says he did not have special "hatchet" or camming prostheses for that climb but ones that certainly gave him no unfair advantage. He attributes his ascent to brawn- he could do eight one arm, one finger pullups at the time.

 

I'm sure it won't stop the debate but it should move the focus away from the prostheses.

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