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Rainier in January./ Gibraltar Ledge


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I think you have hit it on the head Alpine k . I think I have been taking this all the wrong way. ,even though it was only the tooth it was fun and rewarding to me . You are completely right it is time I moved on from slogging to some climbing..Dan P.S. and come back to Rainier when I am ready for a harder route such as liberty Ridge. The 6 attempts I have had on Rainier I have always been the leader(not by complete choice) I found out up there that I had to tie Everyone in to the rope show them ice axe uphill rope downhill and I am the newby . People seem to exaggerate thier experience (sometimes) on the internet.

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Dan -

I have been down the Tahoma Glacier, and looked at Success Cleaver. Excellent choices, both, but probably better with as much snow cover as possible (Tahoma Glacier opens up by mid-season and I wouldn't recommend the Sicle as an alternative while the Cleaver -- well, its a cleaver).


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These guys weren't unpleasant people . I liked them and am sure as time goes on or when they are on the other end of a similar situation they may view the day differently. I was mad at someone who got altitude sickness when it looked like I was going to get my first Rainier summit last summer under perfect conditions . I now feel bad about making a deal out of an unchangeable situation. It's all a learning experience climbing, women, Life in general.

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Only an east coaster on a schedule would get testy when you save his life. I was up on Mcdonald peak in the Missions in Montana one December when a low pressure system moved in and dumped 3 ft with winds at about 35. Perfect slab setup on a styrofoam base. My east coast buddy wanted to go for it and got really bent when I persisted in not going out there. he finally talked me into going up to the top of Sheeps Head which is on the ridge up to McDonald. Once we got up there he said we might as well keep going. I said OK but for this first part off the rock, I'll belay you. He begrudgingly waited for me to set three bomber anchors and then headed out into slabsville. It cut loose before he was 30 ft out and I thought I was going to get pulled off. It ripped the rope through my overmit and pulled me onto my hip hard. When the avalanche finally passed him by he was bruised but not injured. He came back up to where I was and said " There. Now its gone. Let's go." I told him to F off and he never climbed with me again. That's probably why I'm still alive. Gotta hand it to that guy though. He is still alive and still an asshole. Persistence counts.

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