Jump to content

[TR] Mt Rainier- Liberty Ridge 4/28/2006


skykilo

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 70
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

it was surprising that no one raised any issues with the idea of leaving one's partner

 

People take extra risks to do extra-ordinary things. That's a partner selection issue. Sounds like one of the guys picked a partner that he didn't feel that he had to take care of, and the other picked a partner that would show him some crazy shit. Pick your partners to balance your personal security vs. ambition. You get what your intent pays for. Skykilo et al. for example is one of those high-risk high-payoff investments.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Contratulations to both Sky and Casey for this incredible acomplishment. Am I correct in assuming that this is the first ski of Liberty Ridge? It has been inspiring to watch Sky and others push back the frontiers of ski mountaineering in the Washington Cascades during the last few years. And thank you for sharing the experience with us through your stories and pictures.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Am I correct in assuming that this is the first ski of Liberty Ridge?

 

No, its been skiied at times in the last 30 years. Lowell has the first decent as

 

1980 May 12 Chris Landry Liberty Ridge Ski descent

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Landry may have took 9 days, but don't doubt that it may not take as many as 9 day trips before you get good enough conditions to summit and ski. Landry came from out of state and skied a line that kicks ass in a style that says, "I'm here to do it, and I'm gonna do what it takes." While sky wakes up in the morning, looks at the mountain and says, "God damn, I'm gonna ski that bitch today!"

 

Liberty was also teled in 83.

Edited by AllYouCanEat
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow...now that's a TR.

 

While everyone is praising the achievement, it was surprising that no one raised any issues with the idea of leaving one's partner where you did. While a great skier, it didn't sound like his climbing skills were as good as yours... what if you didn't return and he had to downclimb himself. Now he's at risk as well. Also, 12K in one day is a HUGE risk for altitude illness. Suppose you had returned and he was unconcious with HACE or hacking up frothy sputum and in HAPE. All seem like reasonable things to take into consideration...

 

As I understand it, someone going up to 12k will likely feel the lesser symptoms of AMS, but: HACE rarely develops below 12k, and HAPE generally requires at least 24-48 hours before onset.

 

Edited by Gary_Yngve
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think David Persson holds the record for fastest descent. Also due to an icy patch

 

blush.gif

 

He soloed the route, then skied it back to Thumb(He skied the bergshrund and the Black Pyramind) on telegear. Sadly, on his SECOND run, he missed a turn on the Black Pyramid section.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow...now that's a TR.

 

While everyone is praising the achievement, it was surprising that no one raised any issues with the idea of leaving one's partner where you did. While a great skier, it didn't sound like his climbing skills were as good as yours... what if you didn't return and he had to downclimb himself. Now he's at risk as well. Also, 12K in one day is a HUGE risk for altitude illness. Suppose you had returned and he was unconcious with HACE or hacking up frothy sputum and in HAPE. All seem like reasonable things to take into consideration...

 

As I understand it, someone going up to 12k will likely feel the lesser symptoms of AMS, but: HACE rarely develops below 12k, and HAPE generally requires at least 24-48 hours before onset.

 

Correct. Sky and Casey were probably not above 10K elevation for more than 5 or 6 hours. For someone to get HAPE that fast is almost unheard of. It usually takes at least one night.

Indeed, Maybe safety at altitude was one reason for climbing in a 24 hour push. As they descended they were probably thinking, "Thank God our HAPE risk is diminishing!" tongue.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thats too bad you deleted Dru's repy it had some good information in it, I have never heard the whole story before. Maybe you could take out his tiny reply to you so Mike can post his thoughts..Or if you dont beleive that we should discuss route history in TR reports maybe you could create another link..any ways I thought it was a good post

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow...now that's a TR.

 

While everyone is praising the achievement, it was surprising that no one raised any issues with the idea of leaving one's partner where you did. While a great skier, it didn't sound like his climbing skills were as good as yours... what if you didn't return and he had to downclimb himself. Now he's at risk as well. Also, 12K in one day is a HUGE risk for altitude illness. Suppose you had returned and he was unconcious with HACE or hacking up frothy sputum and in HAPE. All seem like reasonable things to take into consideration...

 

As I understand it, someone going up to 12k will likely feel the lesser symptoms of AMS, but: HACE rarely develops below 12k, and HAPE generally requires at least 24-48 hours before onset.

 

Correct. Sky and Casey were probably not above 10K elevation for more than 5 or 6 hours. For someone to get HAPE that fast is almost unheard of. It usually takes at least one night.

Indeed, Maybe safety at altitude was one reason for climbing in a 24 hour push. As they descended they were probably thinking, "Thank God our HAPE risk is diminishing!" tongue.gif

 

The point about getting up and down is a good one... it definitely diminishes the risk. You are also right about the timing of these things... HAPE usually starts within 2-5 days of ascending. What's a bit different here is the amount of physical exertion associated with the climbing and heavy exertion is a risk factor for HAPE. HAPE has also been seen as low as 8,000 feet and according to one study maybe even lower. There also case in the Rockies where east coasters fly out in the morning and hit the chair to the top of the resorts in the afternoon and get in trouble. You're right... less likely. Not unheard of. As for HACE, it typically is not seen until above 13K but that's not a hard and fast rule and I have heard of deaths from HACE at around 12K. I've also been involved with some chamber studies on high altitude physiology in which we had people at elevations of 11-12K and within 4 hours, a few of them had severe AMS that quickly could have proceeded to HACE if we hadn't taken them out. A lot of this is anecdotal, of course, not a lot of good data on any of it. In the end, it boils down to someone's individual susceptibility and what works for some will not work for others as the response to altitude varies a lot between individuals. The key is to know what one's tolerance is... and clearly Sky knows his.

Edited by iluka
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sky2.jpg

 

Wow. I'm in CC.com rehab and am only posting when something here gets my heartrate up.... Your picture is the best ever posted on this website. I don't know if you're the photographer or the subject, but that pic belongs on the cover of Couloir or Outside or...The New York Times! Absolutely breathtaking. thumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...