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Jens

Mythos question?

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I'm looking to replace my pair of multi-day shoes, you know the kind that you have sized so big that you wear em' for 15 hour days for several days in a row. I've always worn insanely stiff board lasted shoes for such a purpose but I'm tired of em'. Would the mythos be way to soft? I've never tried em on. I'm thinking for long alpine and mostly free walls. Will I blow out the toes in a week? Stiff board lasted high top shoes have and will always suck. How tough are the mythos shoes?

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i love my mythos, but they might be a little soft for a heavier person. they have held up great for me. they are great to climb in. i have found them a little soft for lots 4th class type stuff.

 

you might try the tradmaster if you want a little stiffer shoe alpine type shoe

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My Mythos seem to actually wear better than my board lasted shoes. I'm thinking it's because the rubber isn't backed up by the hard last and is able to deform *around* rocks and whatnot rather than be subjected to more of a point contact. Only a hypothesis at this point...

 

On the other hand, it's your feet that take the abuse.

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I've never done more than 2 days in a row of 10+ hour climbing. But it's my fingers that go first...I'm not climbing crack on those long days.

 

Yet, if you think my experience might translate, the shoes I found the most love from were actually big anazazi lace ups or velcros. I would wear soft slippers training, and then switch to the comparatively more rigid velcros or laceups for the big days.

 

Somehow though, I think my experience is not exactly what you're looking for. tongue.gif

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Mythos are a good shoe for moderate multi-pitch trad. However, I have had some issues w/them. First, there are two metal grommets that act as the fist lace eyelets. If you are stuffing you toes in cracks, the grommets quickly saw through the laces (Mythos are a bitch to relace). Also if you tend to have wide feet, as I do, the toe rand tends to buldge out, making it more difficult to place your foot on small edges (granted, it is not marketed as an edging shoe). Anyway, I know several people that have had good luck with the Trad Masters.

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Jens,

Also consider the Scarpa Marathon. I love the design of the shoe, though they don't fit me perfectly. If they fit you, I think they are the perfect all-day shoe. They do turn you feet yellow though.

 

HEY ROCK SHOE MANUFACTURERS! DON'T DYE THE LEATHER ON SHOES! OR IF YOU MUST, MAKE THEM LIGHT/NEUTRAL COLOR!!!! madgo_ron.gif

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mythos are good, but Pax is right, my toenails have been mythos-purple for 2 months.

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Also if you tend to have wide feet, as I do, the toe rand tends to buldge out, making it more difficult to place your foot on small edges (granted, it is not marketed as an edging shoe). Anyway, I know several people that have had good luck with the Trad Masters.

I love my mythos, but also have a wider foot. Have you found a shoe that does not buldge out like this or that works better with a wider foot?

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I'm finding that the shape of the toe area is as important as the overall width of the last, and heel fit is surprisingly important (some heel cups just plain HURT). The only way you know what fits is to go try on a bunch of them, and then with many shoes you'll find that they stretch so fast that your perfect fit doesn't last very long anyway.

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Mythos (at least for me) tend to be very comfortable even when sized tight. The inherent suppleness of the shoe means they will stretch to a near perfect fit (again at least for me).

 

They're the only shoe I regularly climb in from 1-pitch to Grade V .

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...with many shoes you'll find that they stretch so fast that your perfect fit doesn't last very long anyway.

On the topic of stretching, does anyone have experience with La Sportiva Barracudas?

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I relaced my Mythos the other day with 2mm cord. Got it done quickly with the help of a tiny flathead screwdriver, the kind you use to fix your glasses. The sharp, small edge helps push the end of the lace through the leather passageways.

 

I also picked up a free blown bike tube from the REI bike shop, to cut up and glue over the toe eyelets to reduce the wear on the laces there.

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I relaced my Mythos the other day with 2mm cord.

 

I thought the fix you used a few days before, just strapping them onto your feet with a few wraps of athletic tape, was brilliant and functional enough!

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After ripping off the tape, there was a good deal of glue left on the rubber. Tape really is aid. wink.gif

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...with many shoes you'll find that they stretch so fast that your perfect fit doesn't last very long anyway.

On the topic of stretching, does anyone have experience with La Sportiva Barracudas?

 

Yep - they stretch a good half size - more than their Katana cousins.

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