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Kyle

Ptarmigan Ridge?

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With all the nice weather we've had lately, has anyone here gotten up it this season?

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Nobody eh?

There's still hope... I think after this little system blows through this weekend, we'll likely get a few days of colder temps up high, & routes like ptarmigan could come into pretty good shape. Unless my partner bags out on me, I'll probably be up there having a go at it next tues/wed.

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a friend of mine asked mike gauthier (head climbing ranger at MRNP) about conditions on the route last thursday or friday, mike said he thought the route was probably out of condition now, that the couloir above the high camp was more rock than ice and the liberty cap glacier was very broken up.

(i'm not saying don't go, just be prepared for less-than-ideal conditions... taking into account the "rangers lie" thread :-)

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Kyle, please post your findings to this thread when you return.... I'd be interested to know how bad/good it is.

thanks

Phil

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Thanks for the tip Forrest. I don't know Mike, but I'll bet he lies less than your average ranger wink.gif and I do really appreciate the info. This is one of those routes I've wanted to do for years... just trying to get the right combination of time off, partner availability, route conditions, and good weather, & it's a tough combo to hit. If I get up it, I'll certainly be jazzed enough to post a TR...

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Sorry to say, we didn't attempt the P-ridge route last week. My partner arrived feeling somewhat ill, so we decided to have a go at the DC route instead. He felt worse hiking up to Camp Muir, didn't sleep well, and next day we ended up turning back from 11500'. Oh well...

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in an attempt to further more misinformation, this liar writes… ; )

people have been climbing the route this year, though to my knowledge, no one has climbed p-ridge lately (i.e. since mid late july).

generally speaking, mid august would be a less than ideal time to climb p-ridge. this is particularly the case this year with such low winter snowfall and warm summer weather. the extended forecast is for more sun and great weather. i suggest hitting the rock instead (alpine lakes, washington pass, n-cascades). but again, this too could be deceitful statement, perhaps i'm attempting to save the route for myself and friends : ) maybe the ridge is in excellent climbing conditions...???

i recommend waiting till late sept/oct before attempting the route (but there could be some duplicity in that statement too). it would be better to let things cool off and refreeze.

interestingly, the first ascent of the ridge was in sept. but maybe that information is inaccurate too... and maybe I don’t know shit about mount rainier… and maybe,... and maybe, and maybe...

you never really know, till you go and find out for yourself... that's why advice (good or bad) is cheap and experience is INVALUABLE!

gauthier

 

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Mike -

I've already stated - in the rangers lie thread - that as far as I can tell you are an exceptional ranger. I, for one, would probably head your advice, rather than rejecting it out of hand as I would the advice or information I hear from so many other rangers. But tell us -- how did you convince the park management that you should actually encourage mountain climbing?

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Dave Buckland and I did Ptarmigin Ridge May 25-28, climbing on the 27th. The route was good then. The slope was hard snow and ice, the traverse ice, and the upper section right of the buttress but before the rock climb was ice.

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quote:

Originally posted by mattp:

Mike -

I've already stated - in the rangers lie thread - that as far as I can tell you are an exceptional ranger. I, for one, would probably head your advice, rather than rejecting it out of hand as I would the advice or information I hear from so many other rangers. But tell us -- how did you convince the park management that you should actually encourage mountain climbing?

 

He pitched it that the new rangers need rescue training and real rescues are cheaper than hiring someone to play the casualty wink.gif

 

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