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Rainier climb


Dan_Larson

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Last week attempted to do Rainier straight through for my first attempt .turned around top of d.c. due to sickness by my partner and self . I went back sun/mon a little rest at muir (8hrs.) helped tremendously,summited 10 am mon . My climbing experience is only the above written another 4 attempts on Rainier fouled by the weather another 5 day trips to muir ,the tooth and the mtnrs. basic course.I would like to go back to "R" in july (if the routes hold up ) also want partners for Glacier Peak and Baker

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As of Sat there were basically no (visable) crevasses to avoid above the DC. The route is actually pretty direct and in much better shape then I thought it would be given all the talk about snow conditions this year. Even the cleaver is pretty good--spending a lot more time on snow this year then I have the last 3 years, although those climbs were in July.

The Ingraham Direct also looks very good. I saw two parties of two going up the route on Sat morning. I looked the route over on Friday and thought it looked decent, but then there is of course some serious negotiation around crevasses there, and some risk of icefall.

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Dan -

You may be a persistent cuss and it sounds like you pursue your goals, however, as Will Strickland stated in an earlier post, you need to mellow out some or you will be pursuing the majority of your goals solo. Sure, the people on this site flip each other a lot of shit but they also have some well thought out, experienced knowledge to pass on. I wish you luck on finding partners, from what I have seen/read you are going to need it.

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Dan:

Why don't you climb something else?! Why the obsession with Rainier. In my own humble climbing experience, other mountains can be, and for me were, much harder to climb. Get out there on a route with less people and no boot track and have some fun. Or at least climb BEFORE RMI on their boottrack.

You have expressed interest in Glacier Peak...I highly recommend it. Nice long Cascade style approach, nice summit.

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I feel with my experience level a first time to the top after the path had been plowed was a safe smart move .You Holly should appreciate that being a mountaineer . Now that I have been up there a couple of times I want to try other routes and GRADUALLY work my way through most of them . Yes, I am interested in climbing other mountains .It is not an obsession it is a strong desire to spend time on Rainier. I like it there. I spent 43 years in washington and never went there until last year .Now that I have found it I want to enjoy it . Take care and enjoy, Dan

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Dan,

Try the Emmons or the Kautz route next if you want to do rainier, otherwise the Sitcum glacier on Glacier Peak is easy or do the Colman-Deming route on baker for some expierance. It can an be found in Jim Nelson's books vol I and II. Good job on the marathon route up the DC.TTT

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  • 4 weeks later...

I plan on doing different Mts. soon I promise but in the meantime I am doing Rainier on Tue/Wed I had this problem before only with drugs just one more, O.K. maybe two or three then I will quit I promise. Clean and sober but still mentally ill. By the way all you CC.comers I have lost the "tude" and apologize to all those I offended particularly Will, Pencil Pusher Eric (my almost climbing buddy)by the way Dad pulled through and is doing fine.Hope I can meet all you guys sometime at one of the" meets". Leave those baseball bats at home now.Anyway happy climbing and see ya out there ( if your doing Rainier) ......Dan

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