G-spotter Posted April 7, 2006 Share Posted April 7, 2006 Like a on a wire Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squid Posted April 7, 2006 Share Posted April 7, 2006 Though I have to admit that those wire gates still bother me a little bit. luddite Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted April 8, 2006 Share Posted April 8, 2006 Thanks for all of the good tips...looks like it depends on what my wallet can handle. The Heliums seem pretty sexy, but twelve draws with dyneema slings would be over 300 bucks! They are a little stiffer than most others as well. It's a definate safety feature as the gate will not break open as easy when you whip, but if I was going to be doing a lot of hard sport routes, I'd probably put a Petzel spirit on the clipping end of the draw or possibly check out the gate action on the other biners before I plunked down that much cash. I didn't really like the feel of the Heliums at first, but bought a few and carried them around for most of a season before committing to 40 more Heliums to upgrade my rack. I didn't notice the gate stiffness I observed on the ground while climbing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genepires Posted April 8, 2006 Share Posted April 8, 2006 neutrinos are fine. all this detailed analyse of biners and their correspnding weight (difference by a 10 grams or so) and functionability is a bit funny. A difference in 10 grams for 30 biners comes out to .6 pounds. Huge deal? Functionability. You will learn how to use whatever biner you buy and probably like it. I got hotwires and regular biners (enduro and light d) and I really like them. As far as I know, there are no safety issues with any modern biners, wiregate or regular. (except for a kong biner, I believe, that is very small and has a small rope bearing diameter) So I would reccomend just buy whatever is on sale and they will be fine. have a couple solid gate biners (oval or closely symetric) for biner brake rappels. Not sure if wiregates can handle the sideways loading. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted April 11, 2006 Share Posted April 11, 2006 Any one that has a bent gate (if it is on the rope end of a draw). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted April 11, 2006 Share Posted April 11, 2006 Depends on how you clip, and/or whether your using it for the rope end, IMO. If you're a finger through the biner clipper, you'll want something with a little deeper "basket" so the end of the gate can clear your finger. (i.e. a neutrino probably won't work well for you). If you clip the other way or use it as a racking biner, doesn't really matter, get whatever is light and cheap. I have neutrinos, superflys, 5.0s, JCs, and hotwires on the rack. I personally like the 5.0s alot because they're huge/deep for clipping and cheap, but they're also relatively heavy. Superflys way light and nice for the price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Posted April 16, 2006 Share Posted April 16, 2006 These are my favorites by far. They come with the Yosemite Quickdraw set, and they're great with thick gloves when ice climbing. Weight: 35g Major Axis: 22 kN Minor Axis: 8 kN Gate Open: 8 kN Both Mammut and Trango seem to make this same biner. It gets my vote; inexpensive, good design, good size, easy to handle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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