otherguy Posted October 8, 2002 Share Posted October 8, 2002 Does anyone know if the shrund on the upper glacier is still passable\doable by a not so technical climber. If you have a recent photo even better. It seems as if the temperature dropping like it has been this route would be great. If one could cross the schrunds to the ridge leading up the summit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted October 8, 2002 Share Posted October 8, 2002 I haven't done the route, but from what I've read and seen (from other ascents of Stuart) the Ice Cliff glacier certainly isn't a route that I would recommend for a not-so-technical climber. Also, late in the year it's supposed to be pretty much just an icefall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
otherguy Posted October 8, 2002 Author Share Posted October 8, 2002 An icefall is good ice climbing. Not so technical is a term I use loosely. I don't climb 5.10 WI5. I do have experience on other peaks and have climbed the mountain a few times by different routes. [ 10-08-2002, 11:22 AM: Message edited by: otherguy ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted October 8, 2002 Share Posted October 8, 2002 otherguy, Had a veiw of the Ice Cliff from the N Ridge at the end of September. It looks rather gnarly down in there right now. The glacier was rumbling all day, and rock was falling all over the place. Bergrshrunds and crevasses were huge. If you haven't seen it in person you may want to reconsider, I would say that getting up it would be very technical and dangerous now. But who knows, you may cruise it??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highlander Posted October 8, 2002 Share Posted October 8, 2002 an option would be to wait til ealry November, when there iis a little bit of consolidated smow on the route, cooler weather, more stable ice fall. It would also make the descent down the sherpa glacier easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
otherguy Posted October 8, 2002 Author Share Posted October 8, 2002 Thanks.. The weatherforecast even at Snoqualmie Pass is at or within 9 degrees of freezing for the weekend. I don't think waiting is much of a necessity. I guess if nobody really knows what it's like in there I may or may not try it. Further comments on the conditions are welcomed. [ 10-08-2002, 11:56 AM: Message edited by: otherguy ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted October 8, 2002 Share Posted October 8, 2002 Let us know if you do it! Sounds like fun, well sorta Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted October 8, 2002 Share Posted October 8, 2002 I did it earlier this year with dps and mvs. I would be very surprised if the upper schrund was passable at all without 1) climbing yuck rock to one side (this as resulted in the near-death of at least one climber in the recent past) or 2) rapping into the schrund and climbing up the opposing wall the approach is only 4 hours max from the car, though, so go in and check it out. It is a really stellar area to be in, regardless of whether you climb or not. Plus, by now I bet most of the bugs are dead, making it all the more pleasant boulder hopping. Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David_Parker Posted October 8, 2002 Share Posted October 8, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Alex: making it all the more pleasant boulder hopping. Alex Ahhhh, yet another climber who didn't know that you don't have to go thru the boulder field. Path along creek WAY easier! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
otherguy Posted October 8, 2002 Author Share Posted October 8, 2002 Wasting my time is what I am trying to avoid. I have approached there before. Thanks for the info. David Parker is correct. There is tape marking the way along the creek too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smoker Posted October 16, 2002 Share Posted October 16, 2002 I did the route in the end of June back in 00. The upper shrund was open and impassable then, we detoured onto rock and made about 75' of rock moves to 5.8 with our crampons on. I would "guess" or expect to find worse conditions at this time of year, but I would also expect stellar ice in the icefall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smoker Posted October 16, 2002 Share Posted October 16, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Juan: Wear your helmet and take pitons. Too true!! Nice to hear from you "Sharp One" where you been? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted October 16, 2002 Share Posted October 16, 2002 I remember looking at it at the end of August and seeing ice on the upper part of the route. Probably the whole couloir is ice now. With the past snow we've had I bet there is a bit sticking around on the north side of Stuart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juan Posted October 17, 2002 Share Posted October 17, 2002 I concur with Alex. Climbed it this June and had a weather epic once above the schrund and for the next ten hours or so. Very scary to be high on the route with 40 MPH winds, heavy spindrift, limited visibility, and overnight packs. We hunkered down on the other side after topping out of the gully, and waited out the weather until the next day. I can't imagine it would be a quick climb this time of year for the average alpinist. So you should try it and let us all know. Wear your helmet and take pitons. John Sharp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smoker Posted October 31, 2002 Share Posted October 31, 2002 Psst-otherguy, How did the Ice cliff turn out? Giveitup Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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