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dbb

first ascent [TR] Abiel Peak- It's All-Der 3/25/2006

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Climb: Abiel Peak-It's All-Der

 

Date of Climb: 3/25/2006

 

Trip Report:

After changing plans at the last minute, Keith, Pax and I decided to check out Abiel Peak on Saturday. The approach trail is popular with day hikers, and was packed down so well that we didn't need our snowshoes at all. Having hiked up in here this past fall with Keith, we sagely knew not to follow the picknic-table-nature-trail loop trail out of the parking lot. pitty.gif If you're coming in on skis, I would just go up the valley which is to the right once you reach the railroad grade (as Ade mentioned in his TR).

 

As it has been mentioned, there are a ton of lines up there. The rock is like the sourrounding peaks: compact and fairly crackless. mixed lines could be bold.

 

abiel_topo_small.jpg

(big topo in the gallery)

 

Fun climbing with two pitches of AI3 and one of AI4 on the right side of the face. We easily walked off right and down a wide gully to the west.

 

dave_p1.jpg

 

pax_p2_4.jpg

 

keith_p2.jpg

 

more pics/details on my website

 

Gear Notes:

4 screws, short and medium length

lots of slings

#1 camalot

 

Approach Notes:

Exit 47 off I-90. Take the Annette lake trail

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Abiel: CC.com flava of da month!

 

Nice work guys! bigdrink.gif

 

Your line is quite a bit more veggie than ours, but it looks like some quality climbing too. thumbs_up.gif

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I think he's right, it's more alpine ice really.

 

Well done gents!

 

-M

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Flavor of the month indeed! We had scoped out this line from the lake, glad to see it got climbed. Nice job dudes!

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that really is the best thing, but only for cool folks like yourself who are in the know. california does that to a person. btw way, i'm sitting here in front a computer right now getting old and fat...what are you doing?

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Awesome. Yet another route on the exact same face. My question is when the need to put up a "FA" will degrade into a route which involves nothing more than hiking up through some trees while carrying an ice tool. rolleyes.gif

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It was safe last weekend.

 

A very weak crust on top with about 12-18" of isothermic, postholin' type snow underneath that. It wasn't gonna slide, but it was a bit of work. Thankfully the distance between the lake and the base of the climbs (the only part that isn't packed down) isn't very long. Dave and Keith conveniently "forgot to bring gaiters" so I got to do all the trailbreaking. the_finger.gif

 

On the descent I even intentionally jumped around on a ~45degree convex slope (I'm stupid sometimes) and nothing slid.

 

Words of advice to those repeating the route: You'll be tying off a lot of alder as pro so bring lots of slings. 5-6 screws, mostly shorties, will be sufficient. A couple of pins and small cams might be helpful, especially if the route is any thinner than when we did it. Don't carry your packs up the route, it makes getting though a couple alder sections pretty annoying and it's only 2.5 pitches with an easy walkoff.

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Awesome. Yet another route on the exact same face. My question is when the need to put up a "FA" will degrade into a route which involves nothing more than hiking up through some trees while carrying an ice tool. rolleyes.gif

 

you should ask klenke that! hahaha.gif

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... a route which involves nothing more than hiking up through some trees while carrying an ice tool. rolleyes.gif

 

I just reread this shit.

 

Josh, I invite you to go repeat this route this winter. It's just like "hiking with an ice tool".

 

Be sure to report back here how your hike goes.

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Even though you took him a little out of context, his intent was to insult. I hadn't spotted the comment before now either.

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Oh yeah but what if it gets skied. That would be a TOTAL BURN! I bet I could totally ski that with only a couple raps. rolleyes.gif

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Hey Josh,

Did you get a chance to "walk up this route with an ice tool in your hand" this year?

 

 

 

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don't think josh's posting up 'round here too much nomore - hoping to see him this weekend though so i'll pass on the query :)

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