Jump to content

[TR] Vantage- Sunshine Wall Various Routes 3/26/2006


Recommended Posts

Climb: Vantage-Sunshine Wall Various Routes

 

Date of Climb: 3/26/2006

 

Trip Report:

Headed out to Vantage Sunday morning with MCash and his buddy, Bruce. We had a grand old time climbing a total of 8 pitches. We each led 1 or 2 from 5.9-5.10b, and top roped some.

 

Saw a whole bunch of friends there: trogdortheburninator and beautiful wife Sam with their friend Aaron, James and Alexa, Gyselink, Jimbabwe and Rob, Mike Boyer and his group, Roboboy and AMS. Fun, fun, fun.

 

Weather was great. Warm for March with some high clouds and a little wind at times, but not bad.

 

Routes climbed: Crack in the back 5.6 (wide stemming, gear 1.5-4 inches), Pony Keg 5.9 (hands and fists 1-3"), Burning Spears, 5.10c, Go Cat Go 5.10b (thin crack with mostly face holds, hands at top), Yodmeister 5.10a (Martin's lead), Whale of the Wanapum 5.9 (Bruce's lead- hands to off-fists), and a 5.9 (TR, left of Red Hot Chilipeppers, hard hands to off-fingers).

 

Martin has the pictures.

 

Gear Notes:

Nuts, double set cams 0.5 -4".

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 57
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Does Go Cat Go have some bolts on it and a small roof about halfway up? It felt like a pretty stout lead when I hopped on it last weekend, but I suppose that's to be expected when one hasn't led any rock since September.

 

(I'm trying to put a name to the route, but I don't have a guidebook. I think it was within the vicinity of a bunch of spicy names and was a 10b with at least two stars.)

Edited by Gary_Yngve
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

 

Got out there as well. Met catbirdseat for the first time. Didn't get to many climbs in for the amount of time we were there, but had fun. Warmed up on the classic bird poop offwidth, called Steel Grill.

 

Next we did Bob's Your Unlce.

 

6146Bobs_Your_Uncle.jpg

 

Then Ryan did Stems & Seeds:

 

6146Stems_Seeds.jpg

 

And we finished the day off with Red M&M:

 

6146Red_M_M.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Craig on Bobs Your Uncle

 

184019.jpg

 

Me on Yodmeister

 

184016.jpg

 

Checking out Crack in the Back, a newly cleaned chimney on Kotick Memorial Wall with new anchors.

 

184017.jpg

 

Brian on Go Cat Go

 

184018.jpg

 

Lots of climbers out enjoying the warm sunshine.

 

184020.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It was super windy at vantage on saturday night (luckliy we were sleeping in our van and the wind mostly died by morning). It was nice to see a bunch of people out on the rock. We climbed at riverview park/point on saturday afternoon and at sunshine wall on sunday. Pretty casual weekend, but a goodtime nonetheless. Unfortuneately my friend Aaron tweaked his shoulder first climb of the day on sunday.

 

More photo onslaught

vantage%20012.jpg

 

vantage%20017.jpg

 

vantage%20030.jpg

 

fun with GIFS

geormar2.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

I'm calling a spade a spade. It's lame to bolt cracks. I don't care if a "good guy" like Yoder did it, or not. It's wrong.

 

The route can be led without the three or so original bolts, but the pro was tricky in spots, so I can grant some leeway for those three bolts, but not bolting a nice crack just because you don't want to bother with gear.

 

I'd still like confirmation that there were indeed bolts added.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Umm, Martin.... My big, black, friend who just got out of prison for sodomizing and killing the last guy that chopped his route put those in. Be warned cause Tiny loves terrorizing little white men such as yourself.

 

Whatever Marty. You don't intimidate me one bit, in person or over the internet. You don't even trad climb, so what would you know about ethics anyways. :rolleyes:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, we know who to talk to when they are chopped MCash. And what a waste of time that will be... how about climb the route and don't use the bolts if you don't want to. WHO CARES!!! Go climb, have fun, and if you are such a tough guy that you have to cut bolts, maybe you should be out putting up new routes in whatever fashion you desire. I thought the route was really fun with the bolts and it already had 5 bolts on it to begin with.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I should clairfy my statements by saying that I would NOT have climbed the route without the bolts because I am not at 10b trad leader... yet. Like I said, I will come back to climb the route with gear when I can, but it was fun on Friday with bolts!! Maybe Jim and/or Marlene with chime in with their reasoning for the bolts...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1. I have climbed the route.

2. This has NOTHING to do with being a tough guy or manly. You really don't understand the term "climbing ethics" do you? Please educate yourself regarding the topic first.

 

I will contact Jim and find out what is up. I like the route and don't want to see it ruined. Is that so bad?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just because I don't spend most of my waking hours spraying all over this site does not mean I am not educated or don't have opinions. My tough guy comments were directed toward your immediate need to chop the bolts some "retard" put up because You don't like them. It is still perfectly climbable whether you clip or plug for protection... nothing has been "ruined".

I am interested to hear what the evil bolters have to say.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just because I don't spend most of my waking hours spraying all over this site does not mean I am not educated or don't have opinions. My tough guy comments were directed toward your immediate need to chop the bolts some "retard" put up because You don't like them. It is still perfectly climbable whether you clip or plug for protection... nothing has been "ruined".

I am interested to hear what the evil bolters have to say.

 

By that misguided mentality, then maybe we should bolt every crack climb out there. Bolting crack climbs is WRONG, nothing you say will change that fact.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...