N. Ridge Stuart TR

[telemarker]

Fun Guy and I had an outstanding climb on Stuart last Saturday and Sunday. Started at the trailhead at 11am on Sat., and bivied at the notch for the upper north ridge. The glacier was quite steep in a couple spots. I had ice axe and crampons and was quite thankful, while FG used a rotten stick for an axe, but had crampons. Not a good runout on that glacier, especially towards the east end by the entrance gully.

 

With just one party of four ahead of us, we quickly passed them on the first pitch, "cut" the rope in half, and did a running belay all the way to the gendarme, with FG leading the whole way. Most of it felt like soloing since he placed probably three pieces of pro the whole way. He made the tricky downclimbing and traversing look really easy. At times we just had to stop and marvel at the surroundings and exposure, and at the soundness of the granite.

 

At the gendarme, it was my turn. The first pitch was part perfect layback, until I needed to place pro, which is a perfect left hand jam with right foot jam. If you've ever climbed the gendarme, you'll understand the feeling of exposure standing on top of the detached pillar of the first pitch. Incredible. The second pitch, o/w crack made me think and cuss, but I finally figured it out, with a couple thousand feet under my feet. There's a handy chockstone right at the beginning that's good to sling, then a #4 friend protects the next few moves, then there's the stuck camalot up higher. I continued left and up out of the o/w to a belay in an alcove. FG took us up to the 5.9 wall, where I led above that towards easier terrain. By that time, thunderheads were building and clouds started moving in. The rock started buzzing with electrical charge, the hairs on the back of my neck started tingling, and the tip of my ice axe right behind my head started making this electrical popping and buzzing sound as well. We booked it to the summit at that point, and it actually cleared up.

 

What an outstanding climb with a great climibing partner. The guy's amazing on 4th and 5th class alpine scrambling, especially the tricky downclimbing. Both of us had not climbed on Stuart before, so it had a adventurous feel to it, even though the route finding was straightforward. If you're planning on climbing it, bivi at the notch, it's so much quicker from there, and the views are cool too, both east and west.

[headmasterjon_dup1]

Nice! Well done Tele! Nothing like a little electric storm to get you 'charged' to make the summit, eh! Did you encounter any ice en route?

[telemarker]

No ice on the glacier, just slushy snow, but hard enough that the crampons bit well. Used our strap on crampons with our tennis shoes was sufficient. Took too much pro, though. Definitely fewer cams next time, and leave the #11 hex for the o/w. The chockstone, plus a #4 friend, and the stuck camalot are plenty for the 2nd pitch gandarme o/w crack. If you do bivi at the notch, take care of your pack and other gear, or you'll find a big hole chewed through it from the rather large Pikas hanging around there. Small cat sized. Biggest ones I've seen.

[Happy-Go-Lucky]

It sure was an outstanding climb. Can't wait to do the full NR!

 

FG

[Cpt.Caveman]

Good job boys. Question is there a cache of cellphones on the summit yet I could use a new one.

 

[ 08-27-2002, 02:49 PM: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ]

[Alex]

quote:

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Originally posted by telemarker:

...or you'll find a big hole chewed through it from the rather large Pikas hanging around there. Small cat sized. Biggest ones I've seen.

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Snafflehunden!