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Dr.Hook

[TR] - Nepopekum Falls 3/18/2006

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Climb: -Nepopekum Falls

 

Date of Climb: 3/18/2006

 

Trip Report:

Jesse Mason and I made the drive up to Manning Park on Saturday morning since temps had been dipping as low as -10 there for the better part of the week. We snowshoed and skied in through deep snow under blue bird skies. From the look out we were delighted to see that both Nepopekum and Go With the Flow appeared fat and blue. Once under the route we geared up in waist deep snow which proved to be the crux of the route for the leader. I was forced to burrow extensively through deep snow to uncover enough ice to actually get onto the falls which involved pulling a steep bulge on the left side. The route itself provided some interesting formations and positions with funky but solid ice. It got a little thin up top with clear views of the water running underneath but still very doable. It took me almost half an hour to get from the top of the ice to the belay tree. This involved frantic burrowing and tunneling through deep and unconsolidated snow high above gear, very sobering. For subsequent parties the passage should be much easier. Excellent route in great weather, a perfect way to end the season. If it stays cold up there both routes should remain in for a while yet, get out there for some Westcoast Spring water ice. Sorry no photos forgot the camera in a hangover daze.

 

Toby

 

Gear Notes:

skiis or snowshoes, ice scews, axes and crampons.

 

Approach Notes:

Three Falls Trail from Tbar about 1 - 1 1/2 hours depending on snow conditions.

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It took me almost half an hour to get from the top of the ice to the belay tree.

 

bigdrink.gifbigdrink.gifbigdrink.gifthumbs_up.gif

no shit! and it's still like 50 degrees up there, perfect for an avvy to start...

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Hey I thought there was no avy risk on this climb.. wink.gif

 

It was fine Toby did a fine job of burrowing and it was more like big puffy clouds of snow rather than a thick uniform layer of snow...the snow pack felt fine on the way in and nothing felt like sliding lower down as Toby burrowed to the base..No running water and no holes so quite surprising seeing it had a big hole Jan 30 when you were there

 

heres a shot from Drus trip almost two months ago..looks more or less the same except no big hole..I think this has to be latest I have ever climbed ice especially on a day trip 2 hours outside of Vancouver!

 

Nepoepkum-Dru Photo

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Went to Nepopekum yesterday, one small hole near the bottom, snow not too deep, but the ice is chandelier city. Backed off from 1/3 height after realizing the climb was turning into a solo, screws were mostly junk.

 

6585513597_707fc311c7_z.jpg

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...and I drove the Coquihalla to Kamloops and back on the 26th/27th. some snow on the ground at Box Canyon, but not very icy looking... maybe the Falls Lake routes would be OK? otherwise, seems like a pretty darn warm start to the season.

 

Drive BC is showing Cayoosh summit at 1C and weatheroffice has Lillooet at 5C at 11am today... yikes!

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