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telemarker

fault-catapult-bone

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The fault-catapult-bone connection is a great way to get to logger's ledge. Climbed it twice now. The swing onto the bone is a kick. I'm kinda in a rutt on these routes, but they're fun, and I don't have the gumption to get on brass balls yet. Any info. on that route?

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bb is an awesome climb! the best one at lower castle. the protection is very good on it, especially at both mini roofs. commitment to the swing and thrown your right foot up. for the 2nd roof i straddle the block(you hear that ladies!!) and then go for the good locks.

 

have fun and crank that bastard. remember to stayed calm and to breath! and it will seem trivial!

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Off topic, but...

Best combo on Careno Crag:

1st on Regular-Cool Struttin'-3rd on Bale/Kramer-Pocketmeister

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Off topic, but...

Best combo on Careno Crag:

1st on Regular-Cool Struttin'-3rd on Bale/Kramer-Pocketmeister

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if you do da bone again... dont forget to light a huge spliiiiif when you get to stoners' ledge... [big Grin]

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quote:

Originally posted by telemarker:

...I don't have the gumption to get on brass balls yet. Any info. on that route?

Sling your pro below the first roof right to avoid fucking yourself with rope drag. The 2nd roof (crux) has really great pro (med-large stopper) that you can place from the straddle. Fingerlock as high in the crack as you can with your right hand to rreeaacchh up and left to the sloper.

 

By far the best route on Castle Rock. [Cool]

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don't forget to base off the top!!!! it will save your rock shoes/bare feet the torture of the descent.

 

when in doubt base!! [Roll Eyes]

 

[laf][laf][laf]

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Well I suppose if you were a hardman you would do

 

Brass Balls traverse over and rap down to Stoner's Ledge. Climb up the Bone. Finish it off with Crack of Doom or Das Musak with gear only. [Razz]

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Bballs rocks....

 

Anybody done every single route at Castle?

 

My favs..

1st place Midway (still the best outing)

2nd MF Direct

3rd BBalls

4rth Canary or Damnation

 

INMHO The icicle blows compared to all the stuff in tumwater canyon. Sport/ Trad/ Bouldering/ ice

 

[big Drink]

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quote:

Originally posted by Retrosaurus:

Crack of Doom was 5.9 when I first did it back before cams.

...and before sport climbing/climbers.

[laf][laf][laf][laf]

idiot's delight and bird nest overhang are classics not to be missed but then so is diretisma and century ...ogm to cod thats probably 10a huh mitchie... [Roll Eyes] ...anyone ever do monkey lip, apesville, glory days.. (lower castle),or the 11a of jy's next to cat burglar (on upper castle)??...not sure which finger crack jim went up...sport climbers should never go to castle because the pitons will rip out when they yo-yo up the classics...pitons are only still there for confidence not to fall on...maybe thats why all the pins on ddd are gone...hmmm... [Confused][big Drink][big Drink]

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Climbed these routes years ago so memory may be fading.

 

APESVILLE: - Good pro with nuts. Climbed it before TCUs. At that time it was a bit dirty. The climb is one hard (strenuous not technical) move around lip of first roof. Good secure finger jams.

 

MONKEY LIP: The section past the first roof is protected by KBs/Bugaboos. (almost entirely fixed) Years ago they were kinda shitty looking. The route, unlike Apesville, doesn't just directly climb through the roof but attacks it more indirectly. Not to start a controversy but a couple of stainless bolts would make this an instant classic. It was a bit dirty too.

 

Both routes belay shortly above the first roof. I have only climbed the right hand break past the second roof. I believe that this is Apesville, as the routes cross each other. The pitch is a bit more go for it as there is a distinct possibility of hitting the slab below if you blow it. It too is dirty. Having done this once when climbing Monkey Lip when I climbed Apesville we decided to escape by climbing a ramp up and left. I think you could also move right and continue up to Logger's Ledge if you wanted to.

 

Is that 5.11a you are thinking of Hangdog? I hardly remember it. It was ok pro kinda funky. I Tr'd it before leading it so I can't say what is would be like onsight. I remember it being an easy .11a. The crux might be getting past a small roof at the bottom? Sorry not a memorable route.

 

PP

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[: ...anyone ever do monkey lip, apesville, glory days.. (lower castle),or the 11a of jy's next to cat burglar (on upper castle)??...not sure which finger crack jim went up...

 

Barely remember trying monkey lip a long time ago when I was a freshman at CWU. It had pitons that were painted orange. I did a bunch of hangdogging.

 

The 11a you are refering to is called hangdog. It is a nice TR with a short but sweet crux. Be prepared to fall a ways if you are leading.

 

Anybody done northwind or the north ridge route?

 

[Confused]

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