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Marty_Johnson

Mt Index

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The Becky guide has a pretty good general description of the route. Once you get on the route, you just follow the slings and pins. Cutting across the slabs or snow field in the middle of the face is probably the crux if it is melted down significantly. Take a medium rack with a few extra small wires and lots of slings for slinging trees and shrubs.

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For a bushy mess on bad rock, it is a pretty good climb and a Northwest classic if for no other reason than the fact that it is such a spectacular landmark from Highway 2. Consider also the traverse to the Main Peak.

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I have climbed the North Peak twice by the standard route. The first time car to car in one day... but it was a hump to do it.

 

Beckey's description is fine... just take the path of least resistance. If there is snow midface then you should take an ice ax... we didnt the first time up and was pretty scary getting an edge of the boot into the icy snow.

 

I've always said that if not for the vegetation on Index... it would be unclimbable. Down low you will climb nearly vertical chimney full of roots and limbs. Often you will not even touch the rock... you will be entirely climbing vegetation!!!

 

The upper ridge is great. Goes up in a series of rock steps with fairly easy climbing.

 

The descent is tricky. I would advise simply descending the route you climbed. The is a temptation near the top to descend moderate looking gullies down. Don't be fooled tho. These gullies get steeper and you end up on high angle slab/brush rapels with anchors consisting of "balled-up" brush!!

 

As a Cascade climber, you are a fool to not climb Mt. Index. However, you are a bigger fool if you climb it twice like I did.

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mid august, ten years back, did a summit bivy on the north peak; so much for 'car to car' in a day. we were late coming out our second day. it's the only alpine summit that i've had the pleasure of bivying on. pay close attention with a backward glance as you go up. we lost some time backtracking on the way down, uncertain that we were on the right route.

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