northwest_dad Posted March 10, 2006 Share Posted March 10, 2006 I have been hooked on Mocasyms for a long time but I want to get something a little sturdier for those tiny edges that seem to pop up on the harder climbs at Smith. Something that edges well but not to stiff. Anyone got any that they swear by? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted March 10, 2006 Share Posted March 10, 2006 um, edges well but not stiff? shoes edge well when they are stiff. try the anasazi pink lace-up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellsbells Posted March 10, 2006 Share Posted March 10, 2006 I swear by the Boreal Aces, but not sure if they even make them anymore. I can stand on the smallest nub in these. They are somewhat flexible as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cman Posted March 10, 2006 Share Posted March 10, 2006 i'll second the anasazi, lace-up or velcro. also a shoe like the la sport muira has a pretty good edge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Distel32 Posted March 10, 2006 Share Posted March 10, 2006 mmmmm, the pink shoes......definitely anasaz. lance ups, then velcros.....then you can ditch the dime fest shit for some steep walls and put on your v10s/dragons Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny_Tuff Posted March 10, 2006 Share Posted March 10, 2006 If you fit OK in Sportivas, the Miuras are first-rate. They're also not so board-stiff and clunky that you can't climb steeper stuff or in the gym if you want, and still get the good performance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mos_Chillin Posted March 10, 2006 Share Posted March 10, 2006 yet another one for the 'sazis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyHarry Posted March 10, 2006 Share Posted March 10, 2006 Get a relatively stiffer slip lasted shoe like a Katana or Anasnazi and resole it with 5 mm Stealth. Will work well for edging and still sensitive. The 5.10 Newton, though I've never climbed in it, is a very stiff slip lasted boot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Distel32 Posted March 11, 2006 Share Posted March 11, 2006 katanas blow donkey cock, don't do it. THE PINK SHOES! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny_Tuff Posted March 11, 2006 Share Posted March 11, 2006 Shit, settle down, twinkle-toes! You get thrown from your yak on the way home from school, or what? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
111 Posted March 11, 2006 Share Posted March 11, 2006 I swear by the Boreal Aces Boreal rubber isn't so good, but the shoes are. solution: resole with 5.10 rubber. Sportiva Muira is my first choice. good rubber, agressive toe. They will allow you to climb AT LEAST 3 grades harder than with an anasazi. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
northwest_dad Posted March 11, 2006 Author Share Posted March 11, 2006 Whoa, 3 grades harder? That is some serious shoe action! I heard that if you spray your quick draws with Teflon then the rope moves through them slower and you can raise your redpoint limit at least one more grade, depending on rope width of course..........javascript:void(0) Anyway, thanks, I'll probably check out the Anasazi shoes 'cause 5.10 shoes seem to fit my big toes bigger and I've heard good things about them. Might need some spray paint for the pink though, or just bring back the whole tights thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Distel32 Posted March 11, 2006 Share Posted March 11, 2006 don't worry dad, pink goes with everything Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chirp Posted March 11, 2006 Share Posted March 11, 2006 Runouts are my personal fave. I took James Fredericks fitting advice and they perform flawlessly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted March 12, 2006 Share Posted March 12, 2006 (edited) Sportiva Muira is my first choice. good rubber, agressive toe. They will allow you to climb AT LEAST 3 grades harder than with an anasazi. Wow, I gotta retire my blue 5.10 Kaukulators which have to be 2 sizes oversized. So you are saying I can jump my runnout offwidth ratings up 3 to 5.8 from 5.4? Schweet. I'm jumping on that. Opps, nevermind, I see you're discussing nubbins. These floppy Kaukulators kick ass on nubbins. Edited March 12, 2006 by billcoe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrythellama Posted March 12, 2006 Share Posted March 12, 2006 i would check out the madrock or evolv shoe line b4 throwing down the money on sportiva or 5.10s. 5.10s inherrently have shoddy craftmanship and will wear faster then the knees of dirtyharry's pants. http://www.madrockclimbing.com/ http://www.evolvesports.com/index.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny_Tuff Posted March 12, 2006 Share Posted March 12, 2006 Sportivas, on the other hand, are consistently well-built, well-designed, high-performing, and well worth the price. Mad Rocks are cheap, and you will get what you pay for in order to save 30 bucks. Shabby fit, mass-produced feel, and the fastest-wearing rubber out there. Caveat emptor. Evolvs appear to be a bit more of a quality product, although I have never climbed in them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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