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John Frieh

All day high performance trad shoe

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Check out acopa. Ive tried many, many shoes, and acopa are by far the stickiest, most sensiteve and comfortable shoe out there. Before them, i thought most rubbers were pretty similar. not true. try em out.

 

alex

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I prefer the 5.10 Ascent for longer all-day trad routes. Similar fit as the 5.10 Galileo (which I use for face climbing) but with the Stealth rubber sole. Personally, I love the ease-of-adjustment that a velcro closure provides.

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MYTHOS!!! Why do you think they have been making it for 15 years. I have a wider fore foot. The Mythos is a bit narrow, but it is so soft that it molds to any shape of foot. My foot is also quite curved or bannana shaped. The Mythos is a straight last similar to 5.10's last...It still stretches beautifully. Everyone should have a pair of Mythos in their quiver of shoes. Great crack shoes that are really sensitive on the face as well. The only downside to the Mythos design is the exposed laces which can wear out quick if you do a lot of splitter crack climbing. A good trick to remedy this is to glue a piece of inner tube over the toebox area of the laces to cover them. the Tradmaster mentioned is a bit stiffer, but does have "rails" that stick up to protect the laces from wearing out.

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Regarding the Evolv Demortos that I posted, they are by far the best shoe I have ever owned. I cant imagine climbing in Mythos again after wearing these. They fit super comfy and climb great. I have used them at vantage, red rocks, leavenworth and the gym and have not been disappointed at all. If you like Mythoses, you should really check these out because you will probably end up buying a pair.

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FYI for those of you with a bionic toe, are inbred, are missing toes or any other number of reason your feet are different sizes Evolv will let you buy each shoe of a pair in a different size... you have to do it special order but it beats buying two pairs of shoes.

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Regarding the Evolv Demortos that I posted, they are by far the best shoe I have ever owned.

Are they stretching? How was sizing?

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I just picked up some of these from Evil Empire. They feel like the greatest comfy trad shoe ever. Like Mythos minus all the drawbacks like bad rubber and massive stretch. I hope to get out this weekend and will report back. If they suck then they are going back to the store, but I have pretty high hopes right now.

 

http://www.evolvesports.com/DEMORTO.htm

Demorto-side.jpg

 

I see a big problem with those shoes already.

 

Color.

 

Why do shoe companies make black shoes? Are they stupid? I suppose they sell well to gym climbers (fashionable black), but if you are going to be climbing in the summer, especially all-day-alpine-exposed-to-the-sun stuff, you DON'T want black/dark shoes.

 

Why do they even dye them at all. Just leave 'em au naturael I say.

 

madgo_ron.gif

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I want my Kool-Aid RED and my potato chips YELLOW, damn it! Shoes are much less appetizing without dye.

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Yeah but if you get stuck somewhere and have to eat your shoes for sustenance, that dye could stain your lips!

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I want my Kool-Aid RED and my potato chips YELLOW, damn it! Shoes are much less appetizing without dye.

 

Yellow shoes + job that doesn't have a dress code + long weekend of climbing in yellow shoes + flip flops on Monday = everyone at work thinks you have jaundice. blush.gifyellaf.gif

 

Even more fun are red shoes. Everyone thinks your feet are bleeding yellaf.gifrockband.gif

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I picked up essentially new Fires and Blue Kaukulators on ebay. Did Epinephrine in the Fires before I nabbed the Kauk's and they were totally comfortable. Nothing beats those Kauk's however. My partner has always used Mythos, but I prefer high tops because I often run the rope over the top of my ankle to secure/brace my foot when [hip or atc] belaying a second up.

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I sized my demortos 1/2 size up from my mythos. I wear 10.5-11 street shoe, 41.5 Mythos, 42 demortos. They stretched a little, but not much. Basically you can size them to fit I think. Maybe the black color will suck on long summer routes, but I dont think it will be a major problem. In my experience, the hottest part of the shoe is pretty much always the rubber anyway.

 

I suppose Mythos got some bonus cool points for being purple, but now they dont even have that going for them.

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My feet were absolutely baked in faded purple Mythos when down at Hueco; it would have been horrendous in black shoes.

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how many times do i have to say it?

Dunno - is the climber making the most repetitive posts the one having the most fun?

 

So..…anybody know anything about the Scarpa Thunders?

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Boreal Ace will always be my favorite for an all around shoe. The only time I wear my Mythos are on shorter sport routes.

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The only time I DON'T wear Mythos is...well...never!

 

true very true, I didn't likemine until these last two months; now they fit like a dream.

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bump.

 

any long termers have feedback on the tardmasters?

 

i picked up some scarpa thunders at rei used them for a day at redrocks and have gym climbed in them a few times. seem like good crack climbers but maybe i'm just not used to that sort of shoe for face climbing, as their stiffness feels like i'm climbing in blocks of wood.

 

well, since they are an rei purchase i feel like i'm still just 'trying them out'

 

how 'bout the 5.10 gammits?

 

anyone?

 

 

 

 

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