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Leavenworth--Icicle Creek


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My buddy bout shat his pants on your mixed route right of the bolted one I led (shown in the post), the funky pro after the 2nd bolt cought him off guard, which was a worthless #1 camalot. Still, a cool route! Nice work up there so far! thumbs_up.gif


It's not super obvious, but an easy arms reach to the left there is a big flake that takes a bomber 3/4" SLCD, a sling keeps the rope in a straight line. It's a fun route. The steep sport route to the right was done by the guys from LMS...


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Climbed thin ice in icicle last weekend about 45 minutes off the main road. It wasn't in the guide book so I don't know anything about it. It was WI3 but very thin, rock protection for the route but we got 2 stubbies for a belay. It was at least two pitches but we didn't do the 2nd because the 15 foot vertical portion looked bad. If we could've put a nut in or something we would've done it. I was just happy that I got to swing some tools. There's actually 2 variations to climb. One is tucked into the corner and the other is a nice ribbon on a smooth face. I'm not too familiar with the icicle so I'm not sure where we were. We saw something that looked like ice and took off. 45 minutes up steep slopes. It was a pretty fun day. I'll try and get a photo on here.


Edited by chrisr
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Interesting looking climb; any more info on where it might be?

Anyway, for lack of something better to do, the fellas and I went out to have a look at Hubba Hubba again yesterday. Turn's out it's a bit thinner than two weeks ago, but still certainly climbable. When things warm up, it'll go fast, I'm sure.

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  • 2 weeks later...

50 degrees F and sunny in the Icicle today. A typical crowd on Mountie Buttress and a party climbing some chossy crap above Snow Lake parking lot, but otherwise, it was pretty much deserted. Lot's of dry rock, including the left hand side of Pearly Gates.

Spring seems to have sprung.

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Lot's of dry rock, including the left hand side of Pearly Gates.

Spring seems to have sprung.


Did you go up there? If there is snow above, the melt off usually runs right down the cracks...it may appear dry from the lot but I have my doubts.


Who were the guys headed toward Bird's Nest Overhang on lower Castle at 8:30 AM on Saturday? When I drove by it was 36 degrees and in the shade. I did snicker when heading through the Icicle and it was 44 and sunny...


The snow up high was fantastic!

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  • 3 weeks later...

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