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Waddington questions!


goatboy

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Hello,

 

I'd appreciate info from folks out there who have climbed or attempted to climb the Kiwi Route on Waddington, as well as the Great Couloir Route on Combatant.

 

Please reply here or PM. I'm curious about rock pro versus snow/ice pro that you took, time en route, and any general impressions of the quality of the routes.

 

Thanks!!!

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it was a long time ago that i was on the Kiwi Route (before the FA, actually - broken crampon ended the attempt), but there was certainly no need for rock pro on the route itself back then. however, you're gonna need it for the summit tower, and there are rock outcrops here and there along the lower arete, so slings and nuts can be useful (and quicker to place) than screws. the route's not very steep, so in good conditions u shld be able to solo (or simul) the arete, then rope up for the glacier higher up.

 

the great couloir seems to vary a lot. when we did the FA it was solid cramponning but not overly icy, altho we roped up for 3 pitches at the top - it's steep up high! it's probably easier/faster/more dependable to belay from rock along the side than off screws. ditto for descent - rap from slings set on the rock. how many raps also depends on the iciness - late season, you'll probably do quite a bunch! u can also go down the N ridge of the NW peak (one short rap), then descend the W face if that's not icy. if it IS icy, you're better off in the couloir where u can get easier rap anchors (unless u'd prefer to frontpoint down 400m of open face... or set innumerable Abalakovs...)

 

btw, take a bit of care with the rap anchors in the Great Couloir - i know of one incident in which a block pulled and the "rider" took a long slide (fortunately with no ill effects).

 

cheers, don

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  • 2 weeks later...

When you guys heading up there? I'm trying to put a group together for July to the Waddington-Combatant Col. I heard a group of 6 is the most economical with heli service. We have two so far. We were thinking of doing the Mcnerthney Pillar as well as others on combatant. ANybody interested in heli share to the COL in july?

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  • 2 weeks later...
Mike King has a long ranger now. Prob makes more sense just to get 4 folks and cram the gear in for one ride.

 

 

bigger bird=more Money

Nope. I asked Mike about this. The Longranger is more efficient than the old one. Maybe a bigger engine, but costs are running the same (outside of fuel cost increases). Win win for climbers thumbs_up.gif

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i gave mike $1500cdn per hour for 1.8hrs in 2005. that was in the long ranger. we scored significantly, with an unplanned dovetail on the exit flight! and i made out a cheque to my 3 chums ~$180 each. as a token of our appreciation, we wanted to send him a custom "mug" with the GI's slogan - know which one i mean? boy, that slogan got too much air time at camp.

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