fat_squirrel Posted February 22, 2006 Share Posted February 22, 2006 (edited) Climb: Mt. Hood-Leuthold Couloir Date of Climb: 2/19/2006 Trip Report: Skied from Timberline at 7:15AM, very cold (10 degrees?). Roped up in a team of two at Illumination Saddle and protected with vertical pickets from below Hourglass to Summit. Four experienced buddies soloed the route ahead of us without any problems. Excellent conditions, relatively warm when in sun, little ice/rock fall. 10 hrs round trip. Check link below for climb photos: Trip Photos Gear Notes: Three pickets. Used running belay. Edited February 22, 2006 by fat_squirrel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rock-ice Posted February 22, 2006 Share Posted February 22, 2006 Nice pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cicleclimb Posted February 22, 2006 Share Posted February 22, 2006 Damn, looks like good skiing conditions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barkernews Posted February 22, 2006 Share Posted February 22, 2006 Yeah, how was the snow? Bulletproof and windblown or soft and fluffy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted February 22, 2006 Share Posted February 22, 2006 climbed this too the day after - i don't ski but when i was on it in the mornign i can't imagine trying to slide down it - quite icy! the best part of the route has to be the final trudge up cathedral ridge - the wild exposure over to the summit is most tranquil, especially int he super narrow parts in a howling gale wind chill was -40 monday morning at the summit, according to my handy-dandy rei thermometer chart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurthicks Posted February 22, 2006 Share Posted February 22, 2006 how's Yokum looking? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted February 22, 2006 Share Posted February 22, 2006 how's Yokum looking? beeeeeaauutiful - totally covered and rimed up - the other conditions monday were less than ideal though as it was quite windy and a nasty cloud system started rolling in just before noon which would have made me start feeling alot nervous - near the top of luets i saw what appeared to be two climbers bailing off either yocums or the sandy though - heading back towards illum gap from the toe of yocums. don't know what their story was. i'm a little surprised not to hear any board-types sprayign bout having done yocums over the past 2 weeks...guess all the real hardmen have been up north Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fat_squirrel Posted February 22, 2006 Author Share Posted February 22, 2006 Route was mostly styrofoam, with many icy spots. I don't think it would have made for a good ski. If it was any warmer, avy would have been a concern. There was definately ice at 1-2ft level underneath. Yokum looked rimed up good, but judging from the consistency of the rime in the gully, I don't know how climbable it would be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gslater Posted February 23, 2006 Share Posted February 23, 2006 Nice GPS track in that last photo. You should do people a favor and post the GPS coords for the entrance to Leuthold, since people sometimes have a hard time finding that when visibility is less than perfect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spotly Posted February 23, 2006 Share Posted February 23, 2006 Nice shots! We Left Timberline at 2:30 Sunday morning and the temps were bitter. Warmed up a bit by the time we came off the summit. Wish I woulda had a temp guage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Couloir Posted February 23, 2006 Share Posted February 23, 2006 Yeah, excellent shots. Certainly better than I have ever seen...or taken myself. Nice work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esugi Posted February 23, 2006 Share Posted February 23, 2006 I second that GPS coordinates for the couloir. I too have not done it but would like to soon. It would be reassuring, if you have it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fat_squirrel Posted February 23, 2006 Author Share Posted February 23, 2006 Both the GPS track and derived route can be downloaded here The Couloir entrance should be at 45.37247462, -121.70774234 Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra_Commander Posted February 23, 2006 Share Posted February 23, 2006 The GPS thing is nice, but maybe consider just doing it by your own observations of the terrain. It's a lot more fun to climb w/o all that crap. I mean, an arrow drawn out with koolaid would be nice too but... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letsroll Posted February 23, 2006 Share Posted February 23, 2006 Fat Squirrel what GPS are you using? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fat_squirrel Posted February 23, 2006 Author Share Posted February 23, 2006 letsroll - I use a Garmin Foretrex 101. However, I imported the track into Terrain Navigator LOS/topo software, created a route based on the track and then exported it. I am not sure of the formatting of the route file (rxf), but if you open the file in a text editor, you can see the coordinates for the individual waypoints of the route, some of which include descriptive names if they represent significant spots on the route. Great point CC - it sure makes it a lot more fun without GPS or coolade! I think of GPS as insurance and use it only when I absolutely need to (has happened on a couple of occasions). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gslater Posted February 23, 2006 Share Posted February 23, 2006 The GPS thing is nice, but maybe consider just doing it by your own observations of the terrain. It's a lot more fun to climb w/o all that crap. I mean, an arrow drawn out with koolaid would be nice too but... I was wondering how long it would take until someone spoke up with this response. Turns out it took far longer than I expected... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bub Posted February 24, 2006 Share Posted February 24, 2006 The Couloir entrance should be at 45.37247462, -121.70774234 The GPS thing can be bad if your map datum doesn't match fs's map datum. You could think your on target and end up on Yocum..... btw, fs, nice climb and awesome pics! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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