Stuart 'Bilers

[layton]

You should've trundled some boulders onto them.

What route did ya do and how was it?

[Colin]

We did the upper North Ridge in a long car-to-car day. It is in fun winter/spring conditions, with rock, snow, and even some ice.

[layton]

Cool. I bet the descent was nice with snow on it?

Congrats.

[Colin]

Mark and I were about halfway up our route on Stuart yesterday, when six snowmobilers poured over Goat Pass. Snowmobiles are not allowed beyond Longs and Ingalls Passes (the wilderness boundary). For about the next 2 hours, they "high-tailed" on the edge of the Stuart Glacer. It was extremely loud and obnoxious.

 

Rangers probably have more important things to do than keep motor vehicles out of the wilderness - like give me parking tickets.

[nolanr]

Death to all snowmobilers.

[Dave_Schuldt]

TORTURE THEM FIRST!!!

[Donkeykong]

Colin,

quote:

---

We did the upper North Ridge in a long car-to-car day. It is in fun winter/spring conditions, with rock, snow, and even some ice.

---

When were you up there? North ridge of what? We went up to climb the Stuart Glacier Coulier (Car-Car) and encountered less than ideal conditions. Fun? Not really. Spring conditions..yes. Knee deep post-holing all the way up to the schrund we had to bail. The last place we wanted to be was in the coulier at sunrise...it's the only time in the day the sun hits that face. There was a very thin crust, but nothing to remotely hold body weight. We took a straight line up to the coulier from the cliff bands (with WI) above Stuart lake. It never improved and we were making painfully slow progress. When we looked back up at the mountain from bellow, our tracks were clearly visible literally straight up to our high point.

We saw 'biler tracks near Goats Pass and down to the moraine, but we did not see any other tracks-anywhere. I'm a little confused. Since you had such a good time (and a fast ascent of N.Ridge), how did you approach? Or perhaps, did you levitate?

 

Later.

[Charlie]

Colin- if you have the time, it would be cool if you could write a trip report. I would like to hear your logistics for climbing the north ridge from the car this time of year- what side did you come in from?

 

[ 05-15-2002, 04:43 PM: Message edited by: Charlie ]

[chucK]

Yeah! And a topo too!

[Charlie]

[Colin]

This was sent to my e-mail this afternoon, by a guy named Robert Rogoz (muscletx@yahoo.com).

 

"hey, i did read your note about the ascent of the n ridge of mt stuart. A

BIG FAT DONKEY DICK LIE!!!!!!!i was there on sat afternoon and sun!!!. yes

snomobile tracks, but not a single human track on a glacier. we walked

right past the gully on n ridge. can you fly? we went up on the colouir,

not a single track on the glacier, though we were sinking mostly mid calf.

we were able to see out tracks there on the way out a couple of miles

away. your claim of the ascent is a FUCKING LIE. i will write about it on

the web page and call your bullshit. if you climbed it, you'd have to

leave the tracks in the gully to the n ridge!!!!!!!! A FUCKING LIE!!!!!r"

 

Wow! First of all, Robert, we approached via Mountaineer Creek, not Stuart Lake. We difinitely left tracks up the Stuart Glacier and into the approach gully, as the snow was soft there. We were traveling on the far left side of the glacier, right next to the rock, which might explain this.

 

I just got back from showing my slides to a friend at Pro Mountain Sports, and some friends at Feathered Friends -- if you'd like to see them, I'd be happy to show them to you as well.

 

I must say, I am quite stunned that you would make such a big assumption, and be so sure of it as to write an incorrect and rude e-mail.

 

We climbed the uppper North Ridge in a day car-to-car, and you failed on the Stuart Glacier Couloir in two days -- is this why you are so disgruntled?

 

Sorry to get snotty at the end of the post, here, but your e-mail fully deserves it.

[Colin]

Charlie, here is somewhat of a trip report:

 

The trail had snow on it from the trailhead almost the entire way. The

snow on the approach was pretty good and firm, except for the last little bit

on the Stuart Glacier (above about 7,000 ft.), where it was still soft. We had originally planned to try the NW Face Couloir, but there was a massive cornice threatening pretty much the whole thing. By doing the N Ridge instead, we were only threatened by the cornice during a little bit of the gendarme bypass.

 

Most of the route was rock, with snow on the ledges and cracks. We excavated for quite a while at the base of the gendarme, but couldn't find the rap bolt because of all the snow, and thus left 2 tricams. After the rappel, we took a chimney slightly left of the normal bypass ledges, which was really fun - it afforded the most pure ice climbing on the route. The gendarme looked pretty much dry (except for the belay ledge about 60 ft. up, which had snow on it), but it would be quite burly without rock shoes.

[pope]

One winter when I was really out of shape, I approached the Tooth with Colin, and I can tell you, the guy is a track star. The approach was the typical treacherous snowy talus, and I think we got to the South Face about noon or 1 p.m., with maybe three or four hours of light. The face was plastered with loose snow (I've climbed the Tooth in winter more times than in summer, and these conditions were about as bad as I've seen). I talked him out of climbing it, figuring we'd probably aid a fair amount of it and end up spending the night out. He wanted to try it anyway.

 

The guys got ambition and he's quite fit. I believe his North Ridge story.

[Colin]

"if you climbed it, you'd have to

leave the tracks in the gully to the n ridge!!!!!!!!"

 

Also, Robert:

 

If you knew what you were talking about, you'd realize that there is another approach gully to the N Ridge from the Ice Cliff Glacier side. This is irrelevant, since we went up from the Stuart Glacier side, but I still thought I'd clarify.

[Charlie]

Nice job! Can you send me a topo (just kidding) did you descend the cascadian? (I'm assuming you came back out mtnr creek) what side did you come back around? Don't let that dickhead bother you- geez, you'd think you were claiming some FA in the Himalayas or something.

[Colin]

Charlie,

 

We descended the Sherpa Glacier. I've descended this way every time I've climbed Stuart, and I highly reccomend it (at least before July).

 

If we had had to walk around, we never would have made it back to the car that day.

[Charlie]

Aww, gotcha. I never thought of that, I've never been on that side of the mtn. Just checked Fred's pics. I'll have to give it a try.

[boonecounty]

Man, I may be knew to the area but what kind of a tool accuses someone of posting a false trip report. Great climb, way to go, hope that guy feels like the dipshit he is.

[Lambone]

Nice one Colin, met you in Feathered Freinds tonight. (I was the one asking Eric about the metolius dasies) Anyway, those pics were sweet, you should scan some and post'em here. Way to get after it dude!

 

But that signiture has got to go...

[Guest]

let me put it like that. we walked up from the toe of the N Ridge all the way up the glacier, oh about 30- 50 yards from the start of the gully to the notch of the N ridge. NOT A SINGLE TRACK!!!!! we were post holing to about mid calf. walking out we were able to see our tracks from about 2 miles. Snow mobile tracks, our tracks and nothing else. When i looked up that gully ( i wanted to see how the start of that thing looked like) the snow was not even disturbed. just a plain, white fluff. we were there in less then 24 hours after the claimed ascent. there was no new snow, clear skyes for 2 days, very little wind, not causing any spindrift. i am sure if someone walked up there 24 hours after us they would clearly see our tracks. so can anyone explain to me how come we did not see a single footstep, posthole or any other sign of human activity?????? pretty weird!!! C'mon i've been climbing for 22 years now. don't tell me that 3 people went blind and did not see a single trace of a party, that claims to be less then 24 hours ahead of us. i don't know what they did, i do not say that they did not summit on stewart. what i am saying is, that there was no climber on the aproach gully leading to the notch nor on the glacier in that particular area. I am 100% sure of that.

what raised even more suspition is that colin mentioned about the start from the other side of the ridge. i did make a couple of ph calls and both parties confirmed my suspitions. it would be fucking desperate to get up to the upper ridge from that side. i don't dispute a fact that the guy can be fit as a fucking tank and can climb hard. but i also trust my eye sight and i know what i see. the story just doesn't match to the facts. I am putting 22 years of climbing against your word. if i am full of shit, then i will apologize for causing a contoversy and tarnishing your reputation. but at this moment i do not belive your story.

[Smoker]

It takes a bit more than 22yrs and keen sight

to determine if folks have passed.

 

You'll need more proof than a donkey's dick.

 

Your the ass AO.

 

Smoker

[pope]

Agent Orange,

 

Maybe the wind came up in the night and covered their tracks with snow (as it sometimes will). Maybe the light was playing tricks on your eyes. Who knows? Colin says he's got photographs back already, so I would imagine if it's that important to you, you could figure out a way to check out the facts before going onto a message board to slander him.

[Colin]

Here's the e-mail I got late last night, to keep everything on the table:

 

"hey, this is just plain stupid. i don't know what you guys did, but i call

it bullshit. NOT A SINGLE TRACK!!!!!!!!! in the gully or on the glacier.

we were at the toe of the N. ridge and within 50 yard of the aproach

slope.no wind, no spindrift, post holing on the glacier. if you were there

there would be tracks.

I did make a phone call to a friend of my who knows the area very well and

works as a guide. yes, there is a gully on the other side of the notch,

but it has a pretty steep drop-off, about pitch and a half of actual,

steep climbing. to quote him on that "fucking desperate, when snowed up".

my attempt on the glacier couloir is not a topic. we walked in in the

afternoon, saw that the conditions sucked and walked out in the morning.

the point is that 22 years of climbing in different mountain ranges gave

me enough experience to see what's going on in the mountains. maybe you

did west ridge- hey great ascent in conditions like that. maybe something

else, i don't know. BUT NOT the n. ridge. the conditions did not change in

such a short period of time. the snow mobile tracks were clearly visible,

our tracks were clearly visible, WERE WERE YOURS???????????? I am sure i

could see something from less then 50 yards away, don't you think???"

 

Robert, I'm beggining to wonder if you are one of those people who find it impossible to admit they are wrong.

 

It is often difficult to see tracks in the snow from below, perhaps this is why you didn't see ours. You, on the other hand, said you could see your approach tracks from far away -- perhaps this is because you were looking down upon them. Also, we were walking up the Stuart Glacier at about 7:00 am, while you were in the afternoon. That section of the approach was soft nonetheless, but perhaps softer when you got there.

 

Your point about "22 years of climbing in different ranges" is irrelevant -- How do you know I haven't done more climbing in the last 2 years than you did in that whole time?

 

In any event, we did not climb the West Ridge, we climbed the North Ridge. '8 years of climbing in different ranges' gives me enough insight to know what I climbed. Yes, it was not in typical condition -- we had crampons on for the entire ascent.

 

In terms of proof, I would really like to meet you at a local shop, and show you my slides. Otherwise, if you think that you can get up the N Ridge in spring conditions - GO DO IT.

 

Our tracks should still be there, as I don't think it has been snowing that far east. Also, at the base of the gendarme there is a new anchor waiting for the next party -- 2 tricams (one large, one small) and a large, red cordellette connecting them.

 

So, Robert, when and where should we meet?

[DPS]

I don't like to get involved in pissing matches, but here goes. I have had the pleasure to climb with Colin a number of times. If you have not heard of him yet, you will. He is one of the most focused and talented people I have climbed with and I would wager he has climbed more hard shit in the last two years than many people do in their entire career. (Have you noticed that people who haven't climbed shit resort to spouting their many years of climbing).

What's more, I don't believe Colin would lie about his ascents, he doesn't need to. You pathetic jerk offs who slander him on this web site can take a flying leap.

[Rodchester]

2 cents:

 

Just because tracks weren't seen doesn't mean they wern't there. People get really focused and walk right by things all the time. Glaciers/snow fields are white and often have contours that while small, can join to camafloge tracks and other marks.

 

The tricams are said to be there...don't believe it? Go see if they are there or not. Then talk shit.

 

Good climbing Colin. And you even left some mountain booty for some lucky climber to pick up.