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layton

[TR] Snoqalamnie Mtn- NY Gully 2/12/2006

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Climb: Snoqalamnie Mtn-NY Gully

 

Date of Climb: 2/12/2006

 

Trip Report:

Fourth time was the charm! I think there are plenty of TR's on this climb, so I'll just add my .02 Conditions were good enough to get up it, obviously. I found a square foot of ice for a few threads of a screw so that was a plus. Lots of digging for mystery holds so the pitches took some time. We used a 70m and did it in 6 pitches, but less if we didn't go an "alternate" way near the top. Marcus did some cool splitter crack layback carefully avoiding a loose death chockstone. there was a bail biner on an orange nut partway up. this is just after the ramp pitches near the ridgecrest. Then I went straight up to the left summit up a splitter jam crack. Descending from the top was very very tricky. The best approach in good avy conditions is up the phantom slide. I can provide GPS coordinates thanks to Alex (thanks Alex). But it's pretty much straight up from the parking lot all the way to the ridge you drop in from. The climb is fun, pretty sustained, some tricky and not so good gear, and excellent moss sticks. it took about 12 hours car to car, less with rope drag issues.

Marcus has way better pics, but the cd he burned me doesn't work. my pics are kinda blah. the 1st was taken a while ago, but looks about the same.

 

The route minus the 1st and part of the 2nd pitch

136ny_gully.jpg

Source lake

136IMG_2047.JPG

Mt Garfield

136IMG_2056.JPG

Marcus on the Ramp

136IMG_2044.JPG

Marcus following

136IMG_2054.JPG

The descent of the top

136IMG_2058.JPG

 

Gear Notes:

60-70m rope

13-15 slings

a screw

a few blades and LA's

some nuts

set o' cams small to 3", two one inch and 1/2 inch cams

several tri-cams (invaluable)

 

Approach Notes:

up phantom slide

no misery shoes required...about 3 hours from car to climbing.

a couple hours or less from the top to the car

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here are marcus's pics resized and color adjusted...his pics are way better than mine, and i'm too wired to sleep/too tired to study any more...so this will kill some time.

 

descent:

1363198IMGP0215.jpg

 

following:

136nygullly.jpg

136untitled1.jpg

 

136untitled.jpg

 

1363198IMGP0214.jpg

 

1363198IMGP0207.jpg

 

leadin'

136untitled3.jpg

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thumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gifNice! That is a route I wanted to try when I was out there. Oh well. Looks better than I had imagined it would be.

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Definitely a fun route, made all the better because: "several tri-cams (invaluable)".

 

Good show y'all.

 

-M

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i'll trade ya for Mt Kenya

 

 

No not yet, give a year or two and then maybe I will be up for trading.

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how much ice did you guys find on the route? thinkin bout trying it on my way up north next weekend, looks good. super small rack suggestions?

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If you wanna bring one screw...there's a place to put it. More of a Scottish affair(frozen turf, scrappy little corners) with some slab/snow climbing down low.

 

Small gear mostly, with something up to 3".

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More of a Scottish affair

 

how many of us who have said something to the effect of "scottish in nature" have ever been to or climbed in scotland?

 

as for the scottish affair....i knew you were cheating on me! cry.gifHCL.gif

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Trust me... It's EXACTLY like Scotland except the beer at Alpental is a lot worse than the beer in Aviemore.

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