layton Posted February 14, 2006 Share Posted February 14, 2006 Climb: Snoqalamnie Mtn-NY Gully Date of Climb: 2/12/2006 Trip Report: Fourth time was the charm! I think there are plenty of TR's on this climb, so I'll just add my .02 Conditions were good enough to get up it, obviously. I found a square foot of ice for a few threads of a screw so that was a plus. Lots of digging for mystery holds so the pitches took some time. We used a 70m and did it in 6 pitches, but less if we didn't go an "alternate" way near the top. Marcus did some cool splitter crack layback carefully avoiding a loose death chockstone. there was a bail biner on an orange nut partway up. this is just after the ramp pitches near the ridgecrest. Then I went straight up to the left summit up a splitter jam crack. Descending from the top was very very tricky. The best approach in good avy conditions is up the phantom slide. I can provide GPS coordinates thanks to Alex (thanks Alex). But it's pretty much straight up from the parking lot all the way to the ridge you drop in from. The climb is fun, pretty sustained, some tricky and not so good gear, and excellent moss sticks. it took about 12 hours car to car, less with rope drag issues. Marcus has way better pics, but the cd he burned me doesn't work. my pics are kinda blah. the 1st was taken a while ago, but looks about the same. The route minus the 1st and part of the 2nd pitch Source lake Mt Garfield Marcus on the Ramp Marcus following The descent of the top Gear Notes: 60-70m rope 13-15 slings a screw a few blades and LA's some nuts set o' cams small to 3", two one inch and 1/2 inch cams several tri-cams (invaluable) Approach Notes: up phantom slide no misery shoes required...about 3 hours from car to climbing. a couple hours or less from the top to the car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted February 14, 2006 Share Posted February 14, 2006 Sweet shot of The Slot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genepires Posted February 14, 2006 Share Posted February 14, 2006 congrats Mike and Marcus! Brought your boots this time? Great job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted February 14, 2006 Share Posted February 14, 2006 Hi Mike Hi Marcus Hi Gene Nice photos and good job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcus Posted February 14, 2006 Share Posted February 14, 2006 Here's some other pics: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted February 14, 2006 Author Share Posted February 14, 2006 here are marcus's pics resized and color adjusted...his pics are way better than mine, and i'm too wired to sleep/too tired to study any more...so this will kill some time. descent: following: leadin' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken4ord Posted February 14, 2006 Share Posted February 14, 2006 Nice! That is a route I wanted to try when I was out there. Oh well. Looks better than I had imagined it would be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted February 14, 2006 Author Share Posted February 14, 2006 i'll trade ya for Mt Kenya Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Choada_Boy Posted February 14, 2006 Share Posted February 14, 2006 Huzzah! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marko Posted February 16, 2006 Share Posted February 16, 2006 Definitely a fun route, made all the better because: "several tri-cams (invaluable)". Good show y'all. -M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken4ord Posted February 17, 2006 Share Posted February 17, 2006 i'll trade ya for Mt Kenya No not yet, give a year or two and then maybe I will be up for trading. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kadyakerbob Posted February 18, 2006 Share Posted February 18, 2006 how much ice did you guys find on the route? thinkin bout trying it on my way up north next weekend, looks good. super small rack suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcus Posted February 18, 2006 Share Posted February 18, 2006 If you wanna bring one screw...there's a place to put it. More of a Scottish affair(frozen turf, scrappy little corners) with some slab/snow climbing down low. Small gear mostly, with something up to 3". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted February 18, 2006 Author Share Posted February 18, 2006 More of a Scottish affair how many of us who have said something to the effect of "scottish in nature" have ever been to or climbed in scotland? as for the scottish affair....i knew you were cheating on me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ade Posted March 21, 2006 Share Posted March 21, 2006 Trust me... It's EXACTLY like Scotland except the beer at Alpental is a lot worse than the beer in Aviemore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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