erik Posted April 9, 2002 Share Posted April 9, 2002 NOT TO take away from anyone, but dont you all think it is still early to be climbing an ice route when it is all snow?????? or mostly snow??? semi steep snow is much easier to climb then ice..... sounds like colin and wayne found the goods out on the n face....... just a thought feel free to hate on me when ready..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayborbon Posted April 9, 2002 Share Posted April 9, 2002 I never did climb the NF route. Triple C was in fine shape a lot easier than I was expecting. Good for that. It seems as if everything was Harder when they did it Kind of like friends telling me other ice routes were fatter than when they did it earlier this season. Other opinions told me otherwise when they saw my friends going up on the harder times as well, a few weeks earlier when my friends did it. I dont climb very hard. I had a good time. I recommend climbing that route or even the North Face. It's not technical now if you ask me. It all comes back to trying to determine conditions from the couch or looking at a internet photo which is pretty common here. All in all who cares. Next route please. Thank yo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayborbon Posted April 9, 2002 Share Posted April 9, 2002 quote: Originally posted by erik: NOT TO take away from anyone, but dont you all think it is still early to be climbing an ice route when it is all snow?????? or mostly snow???semi steep snow is much easier to climb then ice..... sounds like colin and wayne found the goods out on the n face....... just a thought feel free to hate on me when ready..... Erik you are couch potatoeing the route conditions hehehe. Maybe if you got into the peak and climbed both or one route I would not give you so much shit but you didn't even walk in. [ 04-09-2002: Message edited by: rayborbon ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted April 9, 2002 Share Posted April 9, 2002 quote: Originally posted by rayborbon: Erik you are couch potatoeing the route conditions hehehe. Maybe if you got into the peak and climbed both or one route I would not give you so much shit but you didn't even walk in. [ 04-09-2002: Message edited by: rayborbon ] i know i was in smith working on my tan...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayborbon Posted April 9, 2002 Share Posted April 9, 2002 quote: Originally posted by erik: i know i was in smith working on my tan...... Gotta work on that tan whitey hehhe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbw1966 Posted April 9, 2002 Share Posted April 9, 2002 When were you at Smith? I was on Koala Rock last Sunday (3/31). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hikerwa Posted April 9, 2002 Share Posted April 9, 2002 Technically Ray, you didn't walk in either... Congrats on the top. sean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted April 9, 2002 Share Posted April 9, 2002 quote: Originally posted by rayborbon: Gotta work on that tan whitey hehhe i gotta look good for all pic in utah.....we see how easy that triple dealy bob is soon enough..... when it is in tacoma conditions....thin and icy..... much like you spine.... [ 04-09-2002: Message edited by: erik ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayborbon Posted April 9, 2002 Share Posted April 9, 2002 Ok I took snowmobile but I tell you all the other parties wanted a tow though. So Sean when I see you rise up then hehehe Shut up. Erik it is pretty non technical. It's getting off your ass and actually climbing the mountain that makes the difference instead of talking about them and following all the pitches you can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayborbon Posted April 9, 2002 Share Posted April 9, 2002 quote: Originally posted by erik: i gotta look good for all pic in utah.....we see how easy that triple dealy bob is soon enough..... when it is in tacoma conditions....thin and icy..... much like you spine.... [ 04-09-2002: Message edited by: erik ] Erik, so insulting but that is ok by me. I did and now you have not. Hehhehe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted April 9, 2002 Share Posted April 9, 2002 quote: Originally posted by rbw1966: When were you at Smith? I was on Koala Rock last Sunday (3/31). Guess I saw you cuz I was doing Marsupials Traverse that day in the morning. was that your large party TRing stuff on the first pitch of Thin Air?? or were you in the party of 2 that did all the pitches? [ 04-09-2002: Message edited by: Dru ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted April 9, 2002 Share Posted April 9, 2002 quote: Originally posted by rayborbon: Erik, so insulting but that is ok by me. I did and now you have not. Hehhehe hugs ray...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatboy Posted April 9, 2002 Share Posted April 9, 2002 My thoughts on this discussion. I climbed the Triple Couloirs route with a partner on April 2, a few days after a few of the other parties mentioned here. I did not do the NF variation. We soloed the hidden, belayed and simulclimbed on the first couloir, simul-climbed the 2nd, belayed the rock step, and soloed the third couloir. Most of the route was good, quality snow. The two cruxes were the ice runnels linking the Hidden with the 2nd couloir, and the rock slab transitioning from the 2nd to the 3rd couloir. The whole route may have been better protected and easier to climb, in my opinion, with more ice. Instead, it was ice buried under lots of variable quality snow. The rock band up high had enough powdery snow to obscure gear placements or holds, and it was too soft to use for adequate purchase. The conditions were, in this regard, challenging. The protection was scarce throughout, though I was able to place occasional cams and pitons and clip several fixed pitons on the first ice pitch. I have not climbed many routes of this nature, but would disagree with Ray's observation that the route is not technical right now. I guess it depends on how you define "technical." The first couloir and the rock slab were rather technical in my opinion. There were long runouts on the first couloir and drytooling on rock covered in sugary snow on the slab. I do believe that it makes as much sense to solo this route, in these conditions, as it does to belay it. In fact, it may be safer to solo it due to the scarcity of pro. In any case, it was a very fine route and I enjoyed it a lot. Stellar views up top, from Baker to Adams! And Stuart, and the South Face of Prussik, and Rainier . . . great climb, great conditions, great views. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted April 9, 2002 Share Posted April 9, 2002 quote: Originally posted by goatboy: My thoughts on this discussion. I climbed the Triple Couloirs route with a partner on April 2, a few days after a few of the other parties mentioned here. I did not do the NF variation. We soloed the hidden, belayed and simulclimbed on the first couloir, simul-climbed the 2nd, belayed the rock step, and soloed the third couloir. Most of the route was good, quality snow. The two cruxes were the ice runnels linking the Hidden with the 2nd couloir, and the rock slab transitioning from the 2nd to the 3rd couloir. The whole route may have been better protected and easier to climb, in my opinion, with more ice. Instead, it was ice buried under lots of variable quality snow. The rock band up high had enough powdery snow to obscure gear placements or holds, and it was too soft to use for adequate purchase. The conditions were, in this regard, challenging. The protection was scarce throughout, though I was able to place occasional cams and pitons and clip several fixed pitons on the first ice pitch. I have not climbed many routes of this nature, but would disagree with Ray's observation that the route is not technical right now. I guess it depends on how you define "technical." The first couloir and the rock slab were rather technical in my opinion. There were long runouts on the first couloir and drytooling on rock covered in sugary snow on the slab. I do believe that it makes as much sense to solo this route, in these conditions, as it does to belay it. In fact, it may be safer to solo it due to the scarcity of pro. In any case, it was a very fine route and I enjoyed it a lot. Stellar views up top, from Baker to Adams! And Stuart, and the South Face of Prussik, and Rainier . . . great climb, great conditions, great views. Ya, see Borbon is a hardman and he is just being modest. Next he will report how he did Cassin Ridge, and it was easay 4th class and a good route for a Mountaineers Basic class to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vegetablebelay Posted April 9, 2002 Share Posted April 9, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dru: Ya, see Borbon is a hardman and he is just being modest. Next he will report how he did Cassin Ridge, and it was easay 4th class and a good route for a Mountaineers Basic class to do. You think I can get a snowmobile in for Cassin Ridge? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayborbon Posted April 9, 2002 Share Posted April 9, 2002 Goatboy, I guess we see it differently. Either way I was more worried about avie danger at the begining. It is a fun route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatboy Posted April 9, 2002 Share Posted April 9, 2002 Nice picture, by the way, Ray. Yeah, I was thoughtful about avy hazard as well, though it turns out that things were pretty stable all day. We DID get a fair amount of spindrift all day long, even very early before the sun was up. Did you guys encounter lots of spindrift? It was pretty cool, climbing through all the spindrift, actually . . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayborbon Posted April 9, 2002 Share Posted April 9, 2002 Ditto on the spindrift. All day long like a good mosquito fest hehehe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted April 9, 2002 Share Posted April 9, 2002 Ray now that you done it maybe it should be renamed the Triple Coolers, after what you took in to keep the beverages maintained at ideal temps? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayborbon Posted April 9, 2002 Share Posted April 9, 2002 I dont climb without a drink paying homage to Kit Lewis heheh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyjizzy Posted April 9, 2002 Share Posted April 9, 2002 Ray, You said it was "Harder" when "they did it". Wasn't it "Heller"? I bet this one goes over everyones head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayborbon Posted April 9, 2002 Share Posted April 9, 2002 I was talking about an ice climb in Lillooet. Not Heller or this route. It's relative to spray unless you do it every day or every week Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted April 9, 2002 Share Posted April 9, 2002 quote: Originally posted by rbw1966: When were you at Smith? I was on Koala Rock last Sunday (3/31). yeah i was out there then, but i think we were on koala on sat and then else wheres on sunday...though over there and not over there.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyjizzy Posted April 9, 2002 Share Posted April 9, 2002 Ray, The "Harder", "Heller", Dragontail thing is WAY over your head. I live in a dimension with very few others. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayborbon Posted April 9, 2002 Share Posted April 9, 2002 quote: Originally posted by crazyjz: Ray,The "Harder", "Heller", Dragontail thing is WAY over your head. I live in a dimension with very few others. Cool. It's in good shape go climbing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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